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Engine Building

  • Thread starter Thread starter stirling33
  • Start date Start date Sep 24, 2005

stirling33

Member
May 14, 2005
126
0
16
Grayslake, IL
Sep 24, 2005
#1
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #1
Question - What parts do you have to replace when you bore a engine block?

Also how much has it cost some of you to bore you block .030 over?
 
5

5.0ina66

Member
Jun 6, 2003
664
0
16
Ohio
Sep 24, 2005
#2
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #2
Pistons and rings are overbore specific. I hear it usually costs about $130, but since I live in BFE, it'll probably be 3x that, with my luck.
HTH
--Kyle
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 24, 2005
#3
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #3
Gotta replace the pistons of course for the overbore, and then you need to get new rings also. And don't forget a good hone put on those walls for them to seat. A bore won't cost too much I don't know exacts.
 
P

Ponycar_302

Member
Mar 12, 2002
29
1
14
Pennsylvania
Sep 24, 2005
#4
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #4
stirling33 said:
Also how much has it cost some of you to bore you block .030 over?
Click to expand...
It cost me $225 to have the block punched +.030, acid dipped, line bored, and freeze plugs installed.

Call around. A shop should tell you how much to expect.
 

stirling33

Member
May 14, 2005
126
0
16
Grayslake, IL
Sep 24, 2005
#5
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #5
What kind of HP gains can you expect after boring the block?
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 24, 2005
#6
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #6
Don't expect anything too noticeable some people don't even notice the difference. The reason engines need to be bored is to make sure the cylinder walls are straight and free of taper. IF you got taper its time to bore, you will always need a hone to scratch the surface of the walls for the rings to seat. I would also recommend some new cam bearings and freeze plugs while your at it.
 

stirling33

Member
May 14, 2005
126
0
16
Grayslake, IL
Sep 24, 2005
#7
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #7
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
Don't expect anything too noticeable some people don't even notice the difference. The reason engines need to be bored is to make sure the cylinder walls are straight and free of taper. IF you got taper its time to bore, you will always need a hone to scratch the surface of the walls for the rings to seat. I would also recommend some new cam bearings and freeze plugs while your at it.
Click to expand...

I am fairly new at all these mechanical stuff, so if there is no "real" benefit in boring the block and assuming my current block is solid, what types of things can be done to get some more HP out of my current setup - besides stroking the motor.
 
P

Ponycar_302

Member
Mar 12, 2002
29
1
14
Pennsylvania
Sep 24, 2005
#8
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #8
stirling33 said:
What kind of HP gains can you expect after boring the block?
Click to expand...
I didn't really expect any. I did it to clean it up, like 69R mentioned.

69Rcode_Mach1 said:
I would also recommend some new cam bearings and freeze plugs while your at it.
Click to expand...
Cam bearings. Those were also installed when I took the block to the shop. I knew I was forgetting something.

stirling33 said:
I am fairly new at all these mechanical stuff, so if there is no "real" benefit in boring the block and assuming my current block is solid, what types of things can be done to get some more HP out of my current setup - besides stroking the motor.
Click to expand...
What's your current set up? I completely redid the engine. World Windsor Jr. heads; Edelbrock Performer cam, intake, and carb; Crane roller rockers; TRW flat top forged pistons; 10"X4" K&N filter. I also dumped anything that caused parasitic drag, like the air conditioner and smog pump. I got rid of all the pollution stuff, like the EGR. I had JBA shorty headers and a 2 1/2" dual (no H or X pipe)exhaust. My only emissions equipment was the mufflers. Thank God we don't have emissions testing in this area.

I have no idea what the HP/torque was on that car. I never dynoed it.
 
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