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Engine Rebuildable?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1965-Mustang
  • Start date Start date Oct 21, 2005
1

1965-Mustang

New Member
Nov 25, 2003
85
0
0
Oct 21, 2005
#1
  • Oct 21, 2005
  • #1
My stangs old engine was the original 289. I have since replaced it with another 289 from a 66. However I still have the old block and heads on an engine stand just sitting. The engine had lost oil pressure and I had not known as I did not have a gauge at that time and it obviously seized. My mechanic guy when he had inspected it said it was unusable and I went on to buy a new engine that he knew about. My question is wether or not the block/assembly is rebuildable or is it just a boat anchor? I know when he dropped the pan there were shavings in the oil from the cam...but would this mess up the block completely?
BTW this all happened because the oil pump shaft by the distributor fell into the pan. . .
 

68 Coop

New Member
Aug 13, 2005
104
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0
Mesquite, NV
Oct 21, 2005
#2
  • Oct 21, 2005
  • #2
If the crank area is good, you can always punch it out to a 331 stroker. 289's are tough, but it will only tell when you get it apart.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
Oct 21, 2005
#3
  • Oct 21, 2005
  • #3
Yeah, saying it wasn't rebuildable sounds like it made his buddy, or him a few bucks.
 
1

1965-Mustang

New Member
Nov 25, 2003
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Oct 21, 2005
#4
  • Oct 21, 2005
  • #4
Well it was just I did not have the money at the time for a rebuild and he knew a guy with a complete 289 from another mustang. So I saved out some money and got the engine which supposedly was recently rebuilt for $700. So if I could actually rebuild this engine it would not bother me much as I would have two engines. The stroker idea was exactly what I was thinking if the block itself would be fine. . .I would slowly put together a 347 if I could while being able to drive the stang. No the mechanic did not make anything out of this, he is a family friend and works on all our cars. He did not, that I remember, say it was not rebuildable at, all I said he just looked at it for me to find the problem and told me it was undrivable obviosly because of the shavings in the oil, it had just run a lil to long without oil. Looks like I'll tear it apart then, more to learn if I do.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Oct 22, 2005
#5
  • Oct 22, 2005
  • #5
1965-Mustang said:
it had just run a lil to long without oil.
Click to expand...

If thats the case and it hasnt been rebuilt before, then its probably still very repairable. The crank probably got scored and maybe a cylinder too, but that all gets fixed in the course any rebuild. As for losing oil pressure, the oil pump likely seized and then the shaft broke. I had the same thing happen on my (freshly rebuilt)289 when I had my '65 notch. I didnt catch it immediately and I know it hurt the bearings, but I just changed the pump and kept on truckin'.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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south louisiana
Oct 22, 2005
#6
  • Oct 22, 2005
  • #6
If the crank and rod(s) that seized got hot enough to burn the oil off their surfaces, then toss those parts. As long as the block hasn't been overbored too far or cracked, it's always rebuildable.
 
1

1965-Mustang

New Member
Nov 25, 2003
85
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0
Oct 22, 2005
#7
  • Oct 22, 2005
  • #7
Thanks a lot guys! I guess I'll take it apart and find a place in the area to check it out. Is there a way I can tell if it has been bored out before or a way to measure it and find out how much so? Thanks so much.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Oct 22, 2005
#8
  • Oct 22, 2005
  • #8
Most non-factory pistons have the bore size stamped on top. STD for standard bore, .030 for .030 oversize, etc. A pair of 6" dial calipers will work also, but cleaning the carbon off a piston is cheaper than getting a set of $100 dial calipers.
 
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