Engine running rough at 1500-2000 RPMs.

2002GreyGT · Apr 18, 2006

So I have noticed this for a while, when I rev my engine to about 1500 to 2000 it runs REALLY rough. I can even feel it shaking the car. Anything over 2000 feels fine.

Any ideas on what it could be?

~K

Yellow2002GT · Apr 18, 2006

I had the same problem......I used a bottle of seafoam and changed out my EGR......idles perfect now!

"ED"

Yellow2002GT · Apr 18, 2006

Also....if your tuneable induction puts the maf closer or in the fender well you will need a pro-m meter to get a better reading for the sensor.....too far down stream and you need a better air meter and a good dyno tune!

"ED"

HoustonGT · Apr 18, 2006

2002GreyGT said:
So I have noticed this for a while, when I rev my engine to about 1500 to 2000 it runs REALLY rough. I can even feel it shaking the car. Anything over 2000 feels fine.

Any ideas on what it could be?

~K

BUMP
Freakin weird! I was just about to start a thread about this same issue. If i just rev my car in neutral, it'll rev nice and smooth up to about 1300-1500 and then randomly gets rough to about 2000 RPM's and then smooths back out again. I can feel it a bit through the pedal but mostly through the seat.

the98stang · Apr 19, 2006

If it's missing maybe it's the plugs?

If the car is shaking it could be the D/S...

2002GreyGT · Apr 19, 2006

the98stang,

Not to sound stupid, but what is a D/S? I check the acronym thread and it was not there.

I had my plugs changed maybe 15K miles ago, and Ford had to replace a Coil pack too then.

Is there a way to test you coil packs to see if they are good?

~K

jstreet0204 · Apr 19, 2006

Yellow2002GT said:
Also....if your tuneable induction puts the maf closer or in the fender well you will need a pro-m meter to get a better reading for the sensor.....too far down stream and you need a better air meter and a good dyno tune!

"ED"

This is not true. Clocking the MAF or putting a curve directly in front of it will skew the readings, but can be corrected with a tune. No need for a new meter.

2002GreyGT · Apr 19, 2006

I am getting my programmer this week, so I can look into re-tuning everything.

Also, Ford said my MAF was out of spec a while ago, but that was after the CAI was on, and I bet it was just off due to the placement. Or that is what I am hoping.

~K

HoustonGT · Apr 19, 2006

the98stang said:
If it's missing maybe it's the plugs?

If the car is shaking it could be the D/S...

Hmm, those are the two areas i'm targeting as well. But wouldnt the D/S vibrate at all rpm's

stng · Apr 19, 2006

Just a hunch, but I am inclined to think that you may have a "Flat Spot" on the TPS sensor.

HoustonGT · Apr 19, 2006

stng said:
Just a hunch, but I am inclined to think that you may have a "Flat Spot" on the TPS sensor.

Hmm never heard of this before. What should i look for?

the98stang · Apr 20, 2006

HoustonGT said:
Hmm, those are the two areas i'm targeting as well. But wouldnt the D/S vibrate at all rpm's

I'm not sure to be honest with you, but I have heard of cases where the drive shaft only vibrated during certain RPM's .

Another assumption...maybe the cats are vibrating? Mine do around certain RPM's when the engine is cold...

HoustonGT · Apr 20, 2006

the98stang said:
I'm not sure to be honest with you, but I have heard of cases where the drive shaft only vibrated during certain RPM's .

Another assumption...maybe the cats are vibrating? Mine do around certain RPM's when the engine is cold...

No cats, O/R X-Pipe

the98stang · Apr 20, 2006

HoustonGT said:
No cats, O/R X-Pipe

Opps....forgot

Yellow2002GT · Apr 21, 2006

Have you washed the engine lately...?? Sometimes water will get into the sparkplug resivoirs and foul them up....it happed to me before and ran fine at WOT but ran like crap in lower RPMS...! Just pull the Coils off and see if mositure is on them or if there brown at the bottom!

"ED"

Yellow2002GT · Apr 21, 2006

jstreet0204 said:
This is not true. Clocking the MAF or putting a curve directly in front of it will skew the readings, but can be corrected with a tune. No need for a new meter.

I understand what you are saying but I have a AFM Power Pipe and my MAF sits about six inches down inside the fender well! Tried to tune it with an SCT dyno tune with the stock and then the C&L air meter and the signal just wasn't strong enough....with a tune......it would run but stall out and after contacting Rick at Anderson Ford it was said that the signal isn't strong enough past 16 inches from the TB with the stock meter.....the pro-m was strong enough to go upto 22 inches down stream!

"ED"

jstreet0204 · Apr 21, 2006

Yellow2002GT said:
I understand what you are saying but I have a AFM Power Pipe and my MAF sits about six inches down inside the fender well! Tried to tune it with an SCT dyno tune with the stock and then the C&L air meter and the signal just wasn't strong enough....with a tune......it would run but stall out and after contacting Rick at Anderson Ford it was said that the signal isn't strong enough past 16 inches from the TB with the stock meter.....the pro-m was strong enough to go upto 22 inches down stream!

"ED"

I see, but you have many more mods that would require a different MAF. A simple CAI will not.

dmontzsta · Apr 21, 2006

Mine is a little shaky from about 1,000-1,300 rpm, then smoothes out. I just bought the car and need to get a FSM to check the resistance on stuff, I am going to change the plugs soon too.

Engine running rough at 1500-2000 RPMs.

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