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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Engine Stutter

  • Thread starter Thread starter Drummer4Life
  • Start date Start date Apr 18, 2007
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LEE93COBRA

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Apr 12, 2000
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Alabama
Apr 25, 2007
#21
  • Apr 25, 2007
  • #21
Does the power loss or stutter get worse as you get higher in the rpm? Have you verified that it isn't fuel system related?
 

Fett

New Member
Nov 2, 2004
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Apr 25, 2007
#22
  • Apr 25, 2007
  • #22
You shouldn't feel vac going TO the EGR unless you are at crusing speed....if I am not mistaken. Did you remove the vac line to the EGR and try driving it like that?
 
D

Drummer4Life

New Member
Apr 18, 2007
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K-Vages NC
Apr 25, 2007
#23
  • Apr 25, 2007
  • #23
The loss of power it at all RPMs. The car will still get up to 40-50MPH in 1st gear however it isnt sharp. It hasitates. I have not tested anything with the fuel system however it does run rich based on how the plugs look. Gas milage sucks too but I kinda expect that (14-16 MPG I think).

I changed the oil and oil filter yesterday. Everything looked good. I also added a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank in the hope of a miracle (fuel filter, injectors, etc...). I have put about 20 miles on the car since it was added.

I am going to go cap the EGR and the vac line just to check it right now.
 
D

Drummer4Life

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Apr 18, 2007
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K-Vages NC
Apr 25, 2007
#24
  • Apr 25, 2007
  • #24
Tested with EGR vac hose disconnected and both ends capped. Same issue. I did get more sputter then normal just now but I dont think its related to the vac hose being capped.
 
D

Drummer4Life

New Member
Apr 18, 2007
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K-Vages NC
Apr 26, 2007
#25
  • Apr 26, 2007
  • #25
I just intalled a new EGR sensor and hooked up the EGR spacer coolent hoses correctly. They were bypassed from the EGR Spacer before.

Now the car idles anywhere from 1300 to 1500 RPM. If i rev to like 3000RPM it moves down slow back to either 1300 or 1500. Changing either the sensor or hooking the coolent lines up did something however the car still doesnt have the power it did when I when it "fixed itself" for that short period.

I went ahead and got the EGR while i was at the auto parts however it wont be in untill tomorrow.

Let me know if I am waisting my time/money installing a new EGR at this point.

Update* I just cleared the codes and checked them again. I now get 94, 44, 34, and 13 when the car is started. Code 13 - RPM out of spec (normal idle). WTF is goingon?
 

LEE93COBRA

New Member
Apr 12, 2000
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Alabama
Apr 26, 2007
#26
  • Apr 26, 2007
  • #26
Drummer4Life said:
I just intalled a new EGR sensor and hooked up the EGR spacer coolent hoses correctly. They were bypassed from the EGR Spacer before.

Now the car idles anywhere from 1300 to 1500 RPM. If i rev to like 3000RPM it moves down slow back to either 1300 or 1500. Changing either the sensor or hooking the coolent lines up did something however the car still doesnt have the power it did when I when it "fixed itself" for that short period.

I went ahead and got the EGR while i was at the auto parts however it wont be in untill tomorrow.

Let me know if I am waisting my time/money installing a new EGR at this point.

Update* I just cleared the codes and checked them again. I now get 94, 44, 34, and 13 when the car is started. Code 13 - RPM out of spec (normal idle). WTF is goingon?
Click to expand...

Sounds like to me that there maybe a vacuum leak somewhere
 

bloopbloob

Member
Sep 27, 2006
578
4
16
Alberta
Apr 26, 2007
#27
  • Apr 26, 2007
  • #27
can anyone verify whether or not there should be vacuum at idle on the vac line going into the EGR valve? I told him i had vacuum, but then someone said there shouldn't be?.... just curious. i've been trying to source my problems also.....
 
D

Drummer4Life

New Member
Apr 18, 2007
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K-Vages NC
Apr 27, 2007
#28
  • Apr 27, 2007
  • #28
Jrichker said on another post for code 33 EGR issues something about no vacuum at idle. I will try to locate that post and provide a link. I found it searching codes ("Code 34" or "Code 94").

At this point I am ready to say to hell with this and take it a ford machanic. I cant keep spending hours and money with no results. I want this fixed so bad i can ****in taste it!!! Money is the only thing stoping me.
 
D

Drummer4Life

New Member
Apr 18, 2007
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K-Vages NC
Apr 29, 2007
#29
  • Apr 29, 2007
  • #29
It seems like one or more of my fuel injectors have gone bad. What should the electical plug read and how should I have my meter set to test them.
 

jgfiveoh

New Member
May 8, 2006
102
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0
Topeka, KS
Apr 29, 2007
#30
  • Apr 29, 2007
  • #30
Fett said:
You shouldn't feel vac going TO the EGR unless you are at crusing speed....if I am not mistaken. Did you remove the vac line to the EGR and try driving it like that?
Click to expand...

^^ i agree there should be no vaccum at idle or WOT on the EGR. only at part throttle cruising.
 
D

Drummer4Life

New Member
Apr 18, 2007
23
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0
K-Vages NC
May 14, 2007
#31
  • May 14, 2007
  • #31
UPDATE!: I just noticed that I have spark on my plugs while they are out and are NOT grounded to the engine. Correct me if im wrong but I shouldent be getting fire from the plugs if they are not grounded.

I hope the answer is "No you should not be getting fire without having your plugs grounded to the engine" because i would at least know wtf is wrong with this POS. :SNSign:
 
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