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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Exhaust Install Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter DocG
  • Start date Start date Mar 3, 2006

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
8,297
1,358
194
Cincinnati area
Mar 3, 2006
#1
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #1
A couple of questions for you guys before I get to dig in on my cat-back and Prochamber install tomorrow.

1) The exhaust studs, does the short end just screw in by hand? I tested a couple and they seem to get stuck before they go all the way in. Any tips?

2) Should the cat-back go on with the body lifted off the suspension? I'm guessing it needs to be lifted to get the tube over the axle, but will this cause any problems with fitment or rubbing once the body is dropped back down?

3) How high do you guys jack the car up? Do you do front and back? I have a set of ramps and two sets of stands, but prefer to use the ramps for stability. But with the ramps, the back of the body obviously wouldn't lift. I can jack it up and use the stands, but I see all sorts of different opinions on good places to place both the jack and the stands. Where do you guys put your jack and stands in front/back??

Thanks for your help guys! I've got my extensions, swivel, and PB Blaster ready to go!
 

hognutz

New Member
Nov 12, 2002
1,940
0
0
albany, oregon
Mar 3, 2006
#2
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #2
well for the catback you will want the back of the car lifted.

for the midepip you wand the front of the car lifted. so you could just lift the entire car and be done with it for the whole install. I would put the jack stands under the front a-arms and the rear housing or rear torque boxes.

my borla was split from tailpipe to front section and I don't remeber there being any issue getting it over the axle but that was years ago now and I would have proalby forgot even if it was a pain.

I would proably pull both pieces. then put the catback on. then the midpipe. leave everthing snug until it is all intalled and the adjust the tailpipes if need but then tighten all the connections.

the one retarded thing I remeber doing is when trying to remov the old exhaust from the rubber hangers I did not lube them. So they cam our hard as hell. then when putting the new exhaust on I finally pulled my head out and put some lube on the rubber and the went in alot easier than they came out. translation dry rubber has quite a bit of grip so don't be a dumbass like me.
 

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
8,297
1,358
194
Cincinnati area
Mar 4, 2006
#3
  • Mar 4, 2006
  • #3
Ok, this is a real PITA. I'm still working ont he cat-back. Figured I'd do catback first, that way I could align it up with the stock H-pipe and get it all tightened down. This MAC catback has so many pieces that aligning everything sucks, or else I'm just being too picky, guess as long as its not hitting anyting I"m ok.

Doesn't help I cut the crap out of my thumb pulling the stock mufflers off....its still bleeding and its been like 3 hours!

Any tips on aligning this MAC cat-back?
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Mar 4, 2006
#4
  • Mar 4, 2006
  • #4
Buy Mechanic's Gloves.
 

99GTtony

Member
Mar 31, 2005
346
0
16
Seattle,WA
Mar 4, 2006
#5
  • Mar 4, 2006
  • #5
Get a tetanus shot when you're done.
 

BennyBlown2v

New Member
Dec 9, 2004
1,233
1
0
Carmel, INdiana
Mar 4, 2006
#6
  • Mar 4, 2006
  • #6
99GTtony said:
Get a tetanus shot when you're done.
Click to expand...

Seriously, good advice!I get mine every time it's due, been stabbed by too many rusty bits to not.

Jack up the rear axle, take off the shocks, lower the rear axle, put the catback in, tighten it up "snug" (so the parts can still shift around), put jack the rear end back up and put the shocks back in, do the midpipe (support it in the center with a jack or jackstand), align everything - tighten away.
 
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