I have an old, rusty stock h-pipe that I'd like to take off & replace with a new, shiny Bassani x-pipe. I've never done anything with the exhaust before. A few questions...
1) Is this something that I could do myself w/o any special tools?
2) Would weld-in flows change the install?
1. Jack the car up as high as you safely can.
2. be sure to have decent selection of extensions and a swivel or two.
3. might need to soak the nuts in pb blaster or wd40.
1.) Yes, as long as you have all the basic tools: sockets, wrenches, extensions, swivel, etc. You can search the forums here for more detailed info. There are numerous mid-pipe install threads.
2.) No, weld-in flows would not change the mid-pipe install at all.
1. yes, you can do it with basic hand tools. The only tool you will need that you might not have is a 15mm medium-deep well socket and universal swivel for the passenger side manifold nuts.
2. No, weld ins wont mean a thing, except for sound.
all the above. The only tough part is the pass. side where it connects to the manifold. Those nuts can be a pain to get to, as long as you have a few extensions and a swivel you should be ok.
make sure you have swivels. If you don't go buy them. it will be the difference in having the old pipe out in 10min vs 30min.
also make sure you soak the exhaust manifold studs with some penetrating oil.
I have air tools but I don't think it took me more than 45 min to do the total swap. without the swivles I may still be under there as close as the cats are to the manifold. ha ha.
My car is up on blocks for the winter, so it's already at a good level. I just hope it's sturdy enough!
I have a bunch of things to put on the car - midpipe, gears, SFCs - and I figured that it would be best to have them all put on at the same time (at the local garage), but I'd really like to save some $$$. I'll give the midpipe a shot & see what happens...
Go for it. I just installed my x-pipe on Tuesday and I'm glad I saved the money. Definately shoot them with some good penetrating oil and let it soak. Like everyone else says, the passenger side manifold bolts are a pain, especially the one toward the inside of the car. I used a 10 in. extension, the 15mm deep well socket, and a swivel. Just be patient and it'll pop loose. I got lucky and only had to undo 7 bolts because one of the driver's side nuts wasn't tightened.
Once you get under there, go ahead and unhook the O2 sensors from their harness. When you get the old pipe off, transfer them over to the new pipe. Then just click them back on once the pipe is installed.
If you don't plan on keeping the old stocker midpipe around to sell, or eventually reinstall, I'd cut it on the passenger side, and drop as much all at once. I only had a small piece to unbolt from the cramped passenger side, and it seemed to make it a bit easier to deal with. Also, I used a nice impact-grade swivel, which doesn't bind up on certain angles like your typical cheapy swivel does. It doesn't have crazy joints or anything; it's all smooth motion. Soaking the bolt a day in advance, and doing a little driving first helps, and then re-soaking it when you do the removal. Do it when it's a bit warm, like 20 minutes after a small drive. If you're not 100% sure that socket is all the way on the flange nut, don't try to turn it at all! I've heard too many stripped nut stories on this side, and they are no fun. If worst comes to worst, there are the stripped bolt remover sockets you can get. Good luck with this, especially if you don't have a lift. Get it up as high as you can, safely!