At the fan connector? no, but i'll do that.When you ground out # 17 did you check for output signal from the CCRM high speed fan circuit?
I think you did, but once parts are swapped out (like the CCRM), things can change.I ended up not being able to test tonight because I couldn't find my other test leads. I needed the first set for it's probes at the end that I used for apply ground and voltage, and the other leads to use with the multimeter to test voltage at the fan connector.
Though, I thought we confirmed that there were volts at the High speed fan output (fan connector) when we tested it and found voltage that matched the output pins. But I don't mind testing the relay in specific.
The Tarus fan plugged right into the connector so I did just that with the original CCRM without touching it and it did nothing, then I tested the fan and it spun with direct ground and voltage from the battery.I think you did, but once parts are swapped out (like the CCRM), things can change.
With your old CCRM, since you said you had voltage at the high speed fan connector with pin 17 grounded, one could have only bench tested the other fan (not touching the CCRM). One could have just set the Taurus fan near the front of the car and used jumpers to connect it to the outside terminals of the fan connector.
If I find the time tomorrow I'm going to look it over inbetween the output to the fan then.If everything is working up to and going out of the CCRM then you have a wiring issue plain and simple. So you need to either change the wiring from the CCRM to the fan or inspect it closely and find the problem with it and repair it.
You'll need at least a 40 amp relay to operate the stock fan. That 30 amp setup in your link will eventually melt down. The 40 amp relay that we already have is really too small for this application, but it does last 15 years on average so I'd say it's ok.
Gotcha both, 40 amp and more reasonable temperatures for it to start spinning and end spinning, I though the 170 was a little unreasonable.Unless you use a balanced 160* t-stat, once up to temp, your fan will probably never shut off (the mechanical t-stat will close before you reach the fan-off-temp of 170*).
You want to have the fan-off temp be 5-10*F higher than the temp that the mechanical t-stat actually opens fully. If your 180* parts store t-stat opens fully at ~ 192*F, you'd want the fan to come on at about 210* and turn off at about 200*.
I'm now heartbroken and split between what to do. Do I cut it all up and cut in another factory harness, or do I tuck it all and get the aftermarket controller? It's a sad sad day ;(I've suspected your wiring all along.
Given how the diagnostics have proceeded so far, it's probably a safer bet to go aftermarket because it will be a stand-alone system and not reliant on any possibly bad OEM wiring.I'm now heartbroken and split between what to do. Do I cut it all up and cut in another factory harness, or do I tuck it all and get the aftermarket controller? It's a sad sad day ;(
Given how the diagnostics have proceeded so far, it's probably a safer bet to go aftermarket because it will be a stand-alone system and not reliant on any possibly bad OEM wiring.
Be sure to research what method of control you want to use, what components will be used, what the installation will entail exactly, and what the cost will be [in totality] before making your decision
Since there are only a few engine bay harnesses and they are all modular in design, I'd just swap in a different harness. I believe the CCRM and fan circuits are part of the computer harness that runs into the firewall to the computer. It's not all that bad to change that harness. The issue will be finding one!
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