Probably a long shot here but anyone know the female connector type used in the inertia switch harness? I’m looking for ones that can accept a larger gauge wire since I rewired my fuel pump to 10g. Thanks
Why not just use a 30A relay? Just use the hot for the fuel pump output from the ECU through the inertia switch to trigger the relay and then you do not need to source terminals.
The car has a Holley efi kit in it and the factory fuel pump relay is removed. The Holley turns the pump relay on. I didn’t want to remove the new fuel pump relay and move it, I have a relay panel I built under the seat with all my new relays and distribution blocks.
I used non insulated step down butt connectors to hook the 10g to the wires at the inertia switch for now. It works fine, just hoping to find the terminals.
Mike,
Do you know how much of a load can the inertia switch handle? My recollection is the factory wiring can only handle 15 amps of load but I have no idea what the inertia switch can carry.
When I moved up to a 255 lph pump I used the pump side wiring off the inertia switch as the trigger for a Bosch 30A relay. Relay is fed by a fused 10 ga wire to terminal 30, 12V+ to the fuel pump is wired to terminal 87, inertia switch 12V+ goes to terminal 86, and terminal 85 goes to ground.
The pumps are voltage sensitive so the better supply you have to them the better they perform.
Unfortunately i do not know. Would need to see the size of the pins. I like the idea of using higher load relays and just triggering with items based of factory wiring design
Ill try and post pictures later on when I get a chance. It kinda looks like a long think female spade but in a box shape.
I could have wired like posted above and had the Holley fuel pump relay trigger wire tap into the green/yellow wire and use that in the trunk as my relay trigger but I didn't want to remove anything from the relay panel I made.
Thanks, I have that dorman kit here and none were it. I used it for when I rewired my ignition coil, those terminals are in the kit.
I probably should have wired it using the hot side after the inertia as my relay trigger. I just didn't want to move my pump relay and/or use the worlds longest 12v ignition trigger. I would have had to use the Holley fuel pump wire into the green/yellow wire at the kick panel then cut the hot side after the inertia, splice into it and run it back from the trunk to under the seat to the 12v trigger side of the relay. I suppose I still can do this if the amp draw through the inertia was too much for a 255 pump.
There’s also the ford pdf that lists terminals, but unfortunately no pics, so would need to Google and hope there is an image to see if any would be compatible.
Im thinking about redoing what I wired yesterday and using the method posted earlier in here. It shouldn't be an issue running a long 12v ignition feed to the relay correct?
Ill run the green Holley fuel pump feed wire at the kick panel to the dk green/yellow factory 14g fuel pump wire, then go from the hot side after the inertia switch back to the 12v trigger side of the relay. Its a long run but should work? Then 10g to the new larger gauge quantum fuel pump harness I just installed yesterday at the tank.
To trigger the coil in the relay it’s about 300mA so 22 ga will carry that the length of the car and never heat up.
Just make sure whatever you do the trigger from the Holley only goes to the relay. Read if you use any of the factory wiring it doesn’t split off somewhere else and try to hot something you don’t want it to.
The factory relay under the hood is gone and I believe there was a fusible link that got removed for the relay as well. How I originally had it was a 10g wire from the pump relay to the dark green/yellow wire in the kick panel on the 8pin green connector. That goes back through the car to the inertia to pump +. Ill redo it so theres no high amp draw from the 255pump going through the inertia switch. Only draw through it will be whatever the relay coils pull which is minimal. Thanks for the help
Gonna bump this up, still trying to find the factory inertia switch terminals. Rewired the pump a different way so only need factory oem size terminals.