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  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech

Filling holes

  • Thread starter Thread starter IICrazy
  • Start date Start date Feb 5, 2004

IICrazy

taken away
Mar 28, 2003
976
0
36
Maple Valley, Washington
Feb 5, 2004
#1
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #1
Now that I've got all new ignition and relocated a lot of stuff in the engine bay, I've got tons of hole where screws and bolts went. and all those random holes that were there before. I want to know the best way to close them up. I dont have a welder, and would like to know any alternatives before I go buy one.
 

Dano78

Founding Member
Nov 1, 1999
2,633
2
47
Vancouver, WA
Feb 5, 2004
#2
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #2
Buy the welder.

Don't glob 'em full of mud.....(bondo)

I catch you brass brazing the holes shut, I'll come up there an SMACK ya.

I have used some stuff in the past called All-Metal which is much stronger than even Duraglass filler. Still, welding up the holes is the absolute best way. And beside, now you'll have a welder and can go crazy with metal projects!
 

COBRA 7

Founding Member
May 19, 2000
466
10
39
Bangor, Maine
Feb 5, 2004
#3
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #3
An easy way to fill the holes is to get new bolts and sheet metal screws.
Put them into each hole and paint over them.
Or paint the head of each bolt, then put it in.

Just a quick idea.
 

IICrazy

taken away
Mar 28, 2003
976
0
36
Maple Valley, Washington
Feb 5, 2004
#4
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #4
keep in mind Im still in HS and I dont have loads of cash, so what's the best welder to buy? The other little projects sounds like fun too.
 

Dano78

Founding Member
Nov 1, 1999
2,633
2
47
Vancouver, WA
Feb 5, 2004
#5
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #5
Get a Hobart 135 or Lincoln 110.
The Hobart can be had off E-bay for about $299-$325 (without bottle but with regulator or sometimes with and empty bottle) I've used Hobart and I like how well they work. Some people like them and some people don't. MOst that don't, like the Lincoln
The Lincoln sells for a little bit more but has a better gun (Tweeko) Lincoln also produces a 'retail' version they put into stores like Home Depot, as starter kits. I think the starter kit for the 110 welder is 'Lincoln 3500' and comes with a basic mask, empty bottle, basic cart, wire, and regulator. Believe it or not, ithe 3500 is about the same price as the on-line (E-Bay) Lincoln only units (non-starter kit) at $300-350 plus if you score it locally, it's a far sight easier to warranty the sucker if ever need be. I've used a lincoln 110 but with the flux core wire and hated it every day. However, the ol man and I want on a welder hunt because his MigPak 250 seems to cook sheetmetal even with a spot stitcher. Every where we went and all those we talked to gave Lincoln the highest review. My dad ended up buying the Lincoln 3500 from Home Depot being as it was the best bang for the buck, so I'll have to give it a whirl with gas shielding.

Stay away from 'Flux core only' wire feed welders. They are not any good for sheet metal work but they do work decently for larger gauge steel.

I don't know if I'd get a Miller. I used one and got mixed feelings of it plus I've heard alot of neutral things about the newer Millers from other companies and other users. BTW- Craftsman welders are Millers. (at least the last four model years were) The one I used was flux core only as well. Hated it, but it did better than the damn Lincoln. So IMO the Miller wasn't SO bad. But it did go to the lowest amperage in comparison to all three. I think it was a 90 amp and also able to be easily converted to a makeshift Tig welder. (provided you get the right stuff for weling aluminum)

Hope this helps you out.
 
D

dmoody

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
789
0
17
Winston-Salem, NC
Feb 6, 2004
#6
  • Feb 6, 2004
  • #6
I'd recommend welding the holes up too... and if you plan on making restoring cars a hobby it is an excellent investment. However if needs dictate, a metal filler like JB weld would probably do okay.

d
 
J

jshcobra

Founding Member
Jul 5, 2000
720
0
0
Feb 6, 2004
#7
  • Feb 6, 2004
  • #7
IICrazy said:
Now that I've got all new ignition and relocated a lot of stuff in the engine bay, I've got tons of hole where screws and bolts went. and all those random holes that were there before. I want to know the best way to close them up. I dont have a welder, and would like to know any alternatives before I go buy one.
Click to expand...

Paste over them with lots of speed stickers like the ricers do.

I'd try the JB Weld if you're on a budget. You can always weld them shut later if that doesn't work.
 
A

a351Must2

Windsor II
Founding Member
Mar 12, 1999
4,317
0
0
Snohomish, WA
Feb 6, 2004
#8
  • Feb 6, 2004
  • #8
JB Weld works great on a budget...I've never been disappointed by it on holes I filled years ago. Best of all, it doesn't absorb water and doesn't expand from moisture, so once it's sanded down and painted, it stays the shape you sanded it to.
 
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