Exhaust manifold to Y-pipe nut & stud dimensions?

I've already rounded one of the nuts on the exhaust manifold to Y-pipe studs. I think the nuts are probably 14 or 15mm, but I don't remember exactly. The flat ends of the studs are about 6.3mm (1/4"). I want to just replace the studs and nuts completely at this point with the nuts and bolts that came with the new exhaust manifold gaskets I got. I know there's a trick where you use new nuts to break a stud free, but I think the studs might have metric threads, and all I've got is a key-type SAE thread checker. I've got a different metric thread checker set, but they're the closed-end type, so they're not deep enough to reach the threads of the studs.
I could buy a deep-well socket extractor for the rounded-off nut and just ignore the stud, but I'd still have to get a new nut that matches it. Since the end of the stud is flat, and since there's not enough room in there to fit in needle-nose vice grips (assuming that even then they'd give me enough grip and torque to break the stud loose), I think the two-nut method might be the only way to get it out, but even then, I don't know if it'd work due not having room to fit a wrench up in there (if I recall correctly).
All of this is related to getting rounded-off and seized o2 sensors out and not having enough room to fit extractor sockets on the passenger-side one. I don't think disconnecting the Y-pipe end would let me lower the Y-pipe enough to get the tools in there. At some point, I expect I'll have to replace the exhaust manifolds, so even if ignoring the exhaust manifold studs now is feasible, I'll have to disconnect those someday.
 
Just get some all-thread (in whatever thread pitch you prefer) 4 nuts, washers, and lock-washers.

Install and trim off what you don't need.

If you use some Loctite Blue or anti-seize, and use good hardware (Grade 8) then it will be easy to remove and re-use if you do end up replacing the manifolds with some shorty headers.
 
Just get some all-thread (in whatever thread pitch you prefer) 4 nuts, washers, and lock-washers.

Install and trim off what you don't need.

If you use some Loctite Blue or anti-seize, and use good hardware (Grade 8) then it will be easy to remove and re-use if you do end up replacing the manifolds with some shorty headers.
I'll need to get the original studs out before I'm able to do that, hence the need for the thread dimensions. There's not enough room to fit an angle grinder up in there.