First start up help

ARTTII · May 16, 2006

I'm attempting to start my engine for the first time with EFI. All parts are from a fox style mass air Mustang. I need help getting it to stay running.

If I hit the key to start the engine catchs almost imediatly, I can hear the relays clicking and fuel pump primes. However I can only get the engine to stay running for about 2-3 seconds MAX.

All parts are USED, so everything should be suspect. Question - I tried to start the engine without the spout connector installed in attempting to set the base timing - I could not get the engine to run long enough to get a reading. I can get a reading while the spout connector is plugged in, but not unplugged; the engine just dies too quick after removing the connector. Is this normal? To set the timing, do I need to start the car w/o the connector plugged in or does it make a difference?

p.s. the only thing I do NOT have connected is my O2 sensors, I need to visit the muffler shop to have my exhaust modified after I get this running, I do not believe this should make a difference though.

HISSIN50 · May 16, 2006

Honestly, with a new combo like that, I'd want to just let it idle however it will. If that means not removing the spout, I wouldnt. I normally remove the SPOUT connector on a hot motor, so I dont know how it runs without the SPOUT when cold.

To set timing with a timing light, it's best to remove the SPOUT. But if you are just getting it running without floggiing it (till the motor's hot and you can set the timing perhaps), I'd just go by sound or use a light with the SPOUT in (10* SPOUT out = ~20-22* with the SPOUT in at idle).

Once it's warm, try pullin the SPOUT again. Having an assistant hold the gas pedal down a little might help (I run out of hands and need help).

And absolute timing is set by ear anyhow - the numbers dont mean squat - listen for detonation. I do this and make changes without ever using a light. I just use a light once I'm done so I know what I'm at and can share it in here.

Good luck.

Skoobie · May 16, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
And absolute timing is set by ear anyhow - the numbers dont mean squat - listen for detonation. I do this and make changes without ever using a light. I just use a light once I'm done so I know what I'm at and can share it in here.

Good luck.

What does "detonation" sound like?

:EDIT: Better yet, does anyone have a link to a sound clip of detonation?

pb_paulie_b · May 16, 2006

Detonation is a pinging sound, or a small popping sound that sounds like it's coming from inside the motor.

HISSIN50 · May 16, 2006

Paulie has it - some say it sounds like marbles rattling around in a glass jar. That's pretty close - it's a very high-pitched reoccuring metallic sound.

You can also hear pinging if you are in too high of a gear and try to go up a hill.

Skoobie · May 16, 2006

Not trying to hj the thread but when your timing by ear is it with the spout in or out? Will that short period of detonation damage anything while your trying to set the timing?

pb_paulie_b · May 16, 2006

No. at idle there is almost no load on the engine.

HISSIN50 · May 17, 2006

Paulie is right on again. I hope I didnt confuse anyone. We ALL time the car by ear, in essence. We set it to some magic numer (12 or 14*) and then we drive it. If we hear detonation, we know to back timing down. That's timing it by ear. This isnt like synching carbs with a piece of vac line where you do it with the car stationary and know you're good. WIth timing, you have to drive it to put a load on it (unless you have a dyno in your garage).

Simply stated, you could keep advancing the timing a little bit till you hear pinging and then back it off a little bit - all without ever using a timing light. I just post about this because this is how I timed cars for over 10 years. The old smog era cars would get out of spec enough that using a factory spec could be kinda useless - so I'd tune for what felt/worked best, not what the book said.

Sorry for the long post.

Roland69 · May 17, 2006

detonation sounds like piston rattle (slap)

grn92conv · May 17, 2006

If you line the pointer up at 10*BTDC (instead of 0*) then stab the distributor to where the rotor button is directly lined with #1 on the cap, you'll be very close on timing for the start-up

First start up help

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