First time out... Edel E-force runs 11.6's at 117 MPH

timfoster405

New Member
Apr 19, 2008
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Finally got to the track w/ my new combo...

Needless to say I am very happy w/ the results...it seems like my S197 was the only one at Cecil breaking into the 11's when there were a bunch of Cars making "more" hp... except they seemed to be struggling w/ the launch...I felt like I was cheating w/ the auto... just hold the brake and give it a little gas... and let her rip when the light turns green. It does not get any easier that that.

On my very first pass ever... I went 11.658 w/ a 1.766 60 ft time in 82 deg weather

Mods to date:
Tillman's Edel E-force stage 1 w/ 3.50 pulley (7-9.5 psi), 450 rhwp SAE
JBA Shorties headers, magnaflow catted x-pipe, SSS Adrenaline axle-backs
100% stock suspension, gears (3.31's), transmission and converter.
Mickey T's drag radial on stock 18" bullitts (265-40-18)

There were a few GT500's that could not get out of the 12's to save their lives... one dude showed me his JPC dyno chart where he was making 572 rwhp.... 615 rwtq... and his 60 ft times were like 2.4 seconds and his best ET was 12.60 (I think).

Just trying to decide If I should put the stage 2 pulley on and get myself kicked-off for the hell of it...(no roll bar)

My timeslips are attached.
 

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Tommy...I got some really funny looks...most people there at the track really were not familiar w/ the looks of an Edelbrock E-force supercharger. After my first run, people cam mope'ng around my car causually looking under my hood with a dumb-founded look on their faces...

The GT500's dudes came walking around too...I just played dumb and really did not get into any conversations...when asked... I just said a 9-10 lbs of boost from a supercharger and some axlebacks...nothing else...
 
Your GT will always hook better with the lighter front end. I hear the GT500's will get an aluminum block in a year or two. I'd like to see how your car will run with a little more practice and some rear suspension work. I mean, you get that rear geometry set up right and get more revs on the launch that sucker will only get quicker.
 
Anthony... What would you recommend for rear suspension work...I have heard of these LCA's... but don't know what they do...

I had a great time going to the track... but that was the first time in 18 years since I had been to Cecil... it was fun and I plan to go back soon... but I dont' have too much room to work. another two tenths... and I am kicked off the track.

I am considering 3.73's but DO not want to make it harder to hook and sacrifice what seems to be very easy to launch. So I may opt to do "some" rear suspension work and 3.73's and maybe the electric water pump to free up a little more horsepower. At this point, I don't want to add more boost, although it would be very easy to do so. I have the pulley and the tune already... just a matter of 30 minutes... and boom... 30 more rwhp...
 
That's easy. J&M Products has the ultimate set up. You won't get any additional noise at all and the stuff really performs well. You don't even have to grease them. I have it and love it. I suggest J&M lowers and an adjustable upper control arm as well. Get a set of Steeda lower control arm relocation brackets and have them welded in too. You want the pinion angle to be set at -2degrees and the new lower control arms to be bolted to the new relocation brackets so the control arms are just a tad lower on the back (rear axle) than in the front where they connect to the body. A J&M adjustable panhard bar is a great addition too if your axle isn't centered under the car's body. Just park on a level garage floor and hang a small fishing weight on a string from the center edge of your wheel well (rear) with tape and let the weight dangle out next to the rear tire or wheel. Do this on both sides to see if the body needs to be adjusted over one way with a panhard bar.

With this suspension set up I can actually slow a burnout down to where the tires are barely spinning with no vibration or wheel hop at all. The geometry is right to where the car's tires naturally plant themselves against the street rather than deflecting away from the street like it was doing. Cornering is much flatter and predictable. The adjustable panhard will also help the car track very straight whenever you have wheel spin.

You can probably get all of the parts for a little over $500. It's about 5 hours work to get it all on including welding the brackets to the rear axle and adjusting everything. The only catch is making sure the front to rear wheelbase is maintained which can be off if the relocation brackets are not welded on properly. The best way is to have the car on a front end rack, but I did mine in the garage. I just bolted the relocation brackets on and had everything together and repeatedly measured the wheelbase on both sides with the help of my son and just smacked the bolted in brackets with a big rubber mallet to adjust them perfectly before welding them up solid.

As far as gears go...3.73's will be your perfect gear for street and strip with that blower and properly set up suspension. You don't live far from me. I could install the parts for you if needed, including the welding.
 
WOW!! you sound like you got it figured out...You say your ride quality has not been altered at all?

Is there any benefit to doing the LCA's by themselves first?

Who do you trust here in MD to do the gear install right... no whining...
 
Your best bet is to install the adjustable upper, lowers, and relocation brackets all at once because then it all gets set up and adjusted once. That way you aren't torquing and re-torquing the fasteners, the pinion angle is adjusted once and you are done. A panhard bar can be installed anytime without a fuss. Look on americanmuscle.com they have all, but the Steeda brackets and the shipping is free. Right down where you live, but over on Belair rd in Perry Hall is Maryland Performance Specialties (MPS). They have a great deal on gear installs. A little over $500 parts and labor and they guarantee no noise. I have no problem with installing FRPP gears myself, but the newest FRPP gears are Motive made. MPS has great results using Motive gears. That's all they install. It requires a bit of a different technique for noise free than the older FRPP gears (non motive gears) and apparently they have it down.

When I say the J&M parts will not cause any additional noise I mean none whatsoever. It's all in their patented bushing design. The control arms use a hard spherical round bushing in the center (does the work) that has 2 softer outside bushings that eliminate any noise and also after tightened completely seal in all of the grease. They don't even sell them with grease fittings anymore. Not needed. I have never been satisfied with aftermarket suspension parts over the years because of all the noise until this design came along. Bigcat told me about them a couple of years ago and I kind of let it go in one ear and out the other, but remembered what he said when I was ready to buy. Glad I did.
 
Yes. He won't install FRPP gears at all. Only Motive. A guy I know tried to explain to him that the FRPP gears are now Motives, but he insisted on Motive boxed and labeled only. I do know 2 people that had him install Motives and they have no problems. The owner is kind of an A-Hole...no people skills, but they have been around a long time. He has one guy that does the gears and supposedly they stand behind their work and it's price right.
 
Yeah, that's him. I bought a Hurst shifter for my old '67 Camaro when I was 17 years old and I think some mufflers too. I went in there about 2 years ago looking for a shift knob and he was still a prick I guess because I'm into Fords now. The guy's been around though.