First time starting the car in 4 years. What am I forgetting?

fawcett · Aug 12, 2009

So finally I am growing some balls and I'm putting it back on the mean streets of Ma.
I'm going to drain the fuel (then add some new stuff), change the oil and fill the drivers rear Nitto because its flat.

So what am I forgetting?
Is there a (easy) way to lube the upper parts of the motor before putting them to work?
Thanks in advance,
Freddie

Zero Signal · Aug 12, 2009

You might consider getting a drill bit attachment to run the oil pump. Change the oil, run the pump for a minute or two with a plug-in drill. Might not be a bad idea considering how long it's been sitting.

the boost creep · Aug 13, 2009

Good thread -- I'm going to be in the same boat when I return in 2mos. Zero, can you explain what adapter to get for the drill and where to attach. I'm assuming it's to the balancer.

I plant to drop the tank to drain as well. Anything else that should be done to the tank/pump while it's out?

desertcox05 · Aug 13, 2009

You have to pull the dizzy to manually prime the oil system. The dizzy is used to drive the oil pump at the bottom of the shaft. the adapter fits in a drill and then on the oil pump shaft inside the motor.. It allows you to prime the oil system without turning over the motor (aka:dry start).
Make sure you mark the dizzy position and the rotor position before you remove it. Otherwise you'll be retiming the motor

rj95svt · Aug 13, 2009

you need to run the drill in reverse to build oil pressure. I just use a old 5.0 distributor with the gear removed. I just attach the drill to the top of the shaft and hold on. The torque of the drill will pull it out of your hands if your not ready for it. It may not be a bad idea to pull the spark plugs and spray some wd40 in the cylinders before trying to crank it.

94-302-vert · Aug 13, 2009

I have heard the stories of rust in the fuel rais causing issues after a long storage... Should you plan to somehow flush them out too?

MysteryMachine · Aug 14, 2009

Why was it sitting for so long?

fawcett · Aug 14, 2009

I put the car in hibernation because I started racing Go-Karts. Its an amazing way to rip through large sums of money in no time at all. A typical weekend could run over $1,000 when you add up fuel (98-110 leaded VP), entry fees, tires, replacement parts, hotel rooms and travel time. Any accidents or blown up motors would only add to the cost.

This season I managed to acquire a factory sponsored ride, I race for GP Karts in the Rotax Senior Class. Currently ranked 2nd in the northeast. Last weekend we were racing at Loudon Nh's NHMS on the road racing course. We'd hit over 100mph going down the main straight and we were not lifting turning into turn 1 (the infield section-not the NASCAR turn 1). Its sick, we pull more than 2G's in some sections of the tracks we race on. All this with a 125cc 30hp Rotax motor with a centrificial clutch (no gears).

Last weekend I had a parts failure where the tie rod came off of the steering column. I managed to control the kart and bring it to a safe stop but it was scary enough to make me want to drive the Stang again. You gotta' enjoy life while you can right? BTW, these karts do not have any seatbelts, roll cages or anything like that.

If I get out of work early enough tonight maybe the lucky night. I gotta date with my car!

revhead347 · Aug 14, 2009

Take a socket driver to the crank, and turn it over by hand to make sure the piston rings haven't rusted a little to the cylinder walls. Other than that, just crank it up and see what happens.

Kurt

fawcett · Aug 15, 2009

I don't know if anyone looked into my thread about my dead Optima Battery but that was one of the issues I had concerning starting my car. My man Kurt came through and gave me some amazing advice. He told me I could put the battery on a 2amp slow charge for 36hrs and it may come back. I was sure I had to buy a new battery and I really didn't want to spend $160-200 to get it started. After about two days on a 2amp charge I tossed the battery in the car, hooked the terminals up, primed the fuel pump a couple times, then cranked it over.

Friggin' thing started right up. I couldn't believe it.
I heard a ticking comming from under the CAI and I thought: "Awe man-i've got an f'ed up injector."

Then I noticed a spark, something was grounding out on something else...

Spark plug wire came off the plug.

Duh. I let it cool and changed the oil/filter, hooked up the spark plug wire, pumped the drivers rear full of air, threw some plates on it and since the tank was empty I immediatly went to the gas station for some Sunoco 93.

The car runs pretty well. It wanders a bit under braking, either the fuel or ignition has a slight flat spot around 2,200-2,400rpms and once I ran the motor up to around 5K and let it wind itself down and I got a huge backfire. It was really really loud, I'm not sure if its rich or lean but the exhaust smells like gas.

What should my Fuel Pressure Regulator be set at?
24lb injectors, 190lph fuel pump, stock rails, ummm I'm not sure what other info would be helpful here. MAF calibrated for injectors. EGR hooked up, unequal shorties, o/r H pipe w/ flowmasters.

And just to be sure, more pressure at the FPR means more fuel right?

Fawcett

flasch192 · Aug 15, 2009

drive it awhile let the ECU adapt/relearn and see if it runs better

fawcett · Aug 15, 2009

Great call Flasch192, I forgot about that.

First time starting the car in 4 years. What am I forgetting?

fawcett

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Zero Signal

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the boost creep

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94-302-vert

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MysteryMachine

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fawcett

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Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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