FIXING OVERHEATING PROBLEMS... step by step

Killer50stang

New Member
May 11, 2004
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Well it took me awhile but I finally figured out why my engine was running so hot and here's a few tips to help you other out there. In my situation my engine would slowly run hot all the way up to 230!!! I was so pissed off because we had just built up this motor. With a blower and heads, I knew I had to figure out how to keep her cool. I have an electric fan, 2 Row Alum Griffin, Brand new Water pump, 160 Thermo, and I was still running hot and everything is brand new.
Finally, I got sick of the problem and brought it to RPM motorsports which is a Pro shop in my area. They Dyno tuned her perfect!! Most of my problem was my timing was so way out of whack. Most guys here on stangnet told me to run around 8 which wasn't even close to where I should be. I have a MSD distributor and ignition. The shop set her to 26 and she runs perfect. I knew my timing was out because she was missing and I had little power for the setup I had. 26 you say? Old number? They claim it's because of the type of distributor I have. They also check my Air/Fuel ratio and set it as well. They set mine a little of the rich side just to be safe for the track.
After I got her back she runs like a dream!! Most of my problem was the timing but some was the terrible wiring job I had all draining my battery power. This causes your Electric fan to bog way down and not produce the CFM's that it should making my motor run to warm. I'm dropping her off this week for a $500 rewiring job. My motors a EFI switch to carb, so you can guess how many wires I have that I have no clue what they are. Soon she'll be as clean as can be in the bay. My advice is to check all the things I did, and you'll find your problem. If and all doubt, drop her off at a good shop. It only cost me $80 and now I have some bragging rights on the HP I am pushing. She came in almost near stock!!! After tuning and adjustment she's pushing 400 RWHP...making me so happy! :D If that shows you how much my timing was off, and the air/fuel ratio. I highly recommend that these things are done when running a blower, heads and alot of performance. Otherwise you're going to overheat and you don't want that.
 
well, hhhmmm. i take it you are running locked timing now? people would say 8* with the spout out and running the puter for timing advance (the puter trims timing a lot more than even a mech advance can).

guys with locked timing seem to run 28-38* - so you are right in the ball park if you are indeed locked (if not, you would be runnning ~45* when advanced - i hope not).

good stuff - nice thread for people searching who are at wit's end. :)
 
HISSIN50 said:
well, hhhmmm. i take it you are running locked timing now? people would say 8* with the spout out and running the puter for timing advance (the puter trims timing a lot more than even a mech advance can).

guys with locked timing seem to run 28-38* - so you are right in the ball park if you are indeed locked (if not, you would be runnning ~45* when advanced - i hope not).

good stuff - nice thread for people searching who are at wit's end. :)


Thanks, as I'm still learing about timing myself. He said that there isn't an advancment on my distrubtor. Would that be considered locked? Thanks for the reply!
 
you got it. if he said there is no advancement, then it is locked.

a mech advance dizzy might be a good move at some point (especially if you find that in order to run really well, you cant start it easily, cuz it is too advanced). you can tailor the advance mechanism to your needs.

good luck.
 
mustangsquared said:
What are you doing to fix the wiring problem on the fan? Larger gauge wiring? I think that is part of my problem on my black magic. Thanks


I'm paying good money to get everything rewired by a Pro shop. $350 but they are routing my battery to the rear as well as making a shutoff switch. It's gonna be sweet!