I have no detonation with runnin 13* on 87 octane... I've heard you want to run the least amount of octane at the max timing advance without detonation for max power.Glad to hear that your happy with the sound and performance. Please ditch the 87 octane and spring for the 92 octane to go with the 13* timing.
Yeah I know aluminum heads is deff the way to go, but trying to keep it budget friendly. Aluminum heads here after I'm said and done are going to run me 2500... Porting the stockers with the valve spring change... 3-500 tops. Obviously I won't make the same performance gains, but like you said... With gears and that work, it should be a fun street car. 3.55 to 3.73 that's what I'm torn between right now, I deff do hwy driving ...You seem to have a plan and pretty much know what you want so I'm not going to bore you with the "go aluminum" rant. Should be a fun street car when your all done. 3.55's with a manual transmission should be very user friendly while still waking up the car. I just went from 3.08's to 3.73's (again) and I'm very happy but I also do very little freeway driving (more like never).
The shop I've gotten some work done from. Mopac (out here in canada, BC) and afr heads or trickflow heads are about 2000-2400, add in pushrods, lifters, rocker arms... As for the octane rating, I was told if it's not detonating there's no point in adding octane. They build street car to strip cars.$2,500 for aluminum heads? Where are you at?
Also, I've never heard of low octane doing anything to increase power especially when advancing timing. What is your source?
Hmm, that's odd as why I'm getting so many mixed opinions. I was told by them you'll actually decrease performance if you advance timing to 12-13 and run 91, the goal is to run the highest timing with the lowest octane (87) safely. If it's detonating, turn back on the timing. And as of right now, there's no pinging or detonation... Mind you I have no issue running 91, I was just told that with a stock 5.0 it doesn't make sense... Now if the compression was changed or timing was advanced 14-16 then yes, 91 octane is required otherwise there'll be detonation. But I'm curious to know what others say as well. If it is true, then I'd like to go back to that shop and find how why and how they recommend that. Considering, like I said, they build and work on countless street/strip cars. There one of the only good speciality shops in the area that don't charge a stupid amount just because of their name.Run premium if advanced timing. Trying to skirt by with low octane fuel and "pray" it doesn't ping is just a recipe for disaster.
Use good branded 91 octane and keep the timing around 13-14 (on a stock car there is no benefit to getting every degree you can).
Because, like I said, according to the shop, can't remember his exact words but basically he said if you're bumping the timing up a bit and adding a higher octane fuel, you're contradicting it... You won't make a gain. You want to bump the timing a bit over stock and be able to use the same octane fuel the car was meant to run on(87) ... That's where you'll get max performance. Stock timing is 10* on these, so running 13 shouldn't be too big of a deal, but after hearing so many people say put premium if you're advancing timing it's got me all confused.Why bump the timing and run 87?????
Because, like I said, according to the shop, can't remember his exact words but basically he said if you're bumping the timing up a bit and adding a higher octane fuel, you're contradicting it... You won't make a gain. You want to bump the timing a bit over stock and be able to use the same octane fuel the car was meant to run on(87) ... That's where you'll get max performance. Stock timing is 10* on these, so running 13 shouldn't be too big of a deal, but after hearing so many people say put premium if you're advancing timing it's got me all confused.
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