found out i have wrong engine!!!

65ShelbyClone · Dec 11, 2012

MikeySmikey said:
1.) All I'm saying is my car loses no coolant anywhere. The exhaust doesn't smell sweet which is an indication of burning coolant. My car does however lose about a quart of oil every 3 or so weeks, the plugs on about 4 cylinders are always oil fouled, and there's oil in my tail pipe. When I cold start it and when I get on it I leave quite a cloud of white smoke behind me.

2.) I deleted the auto sig just for you. Feel special

1.) I find that oil smoke is sometimes mistaken for steam in some contexts.

2.) No, but I do appreciate it.

If you didn't already have engine swap plans, I would have suggested just to hone and rering the engine you have. It might have been a crap rebuild or it could have been the break-in. Many people have convoluted one-size-fits-all rituals for doing so that involve lots of running with minimal load. It's a holdover from the slider cam days. Couple that with modern materials, machining, and oil and it can result in unseated rings. Got a new roller cam engine? Put the boots to it.

MikeySmikey · Dec 11, 2012

65ShelbyClone said:
1.) I find that oil smoke is sometimes mistaken for steam in some contexts.

2.) No, but I do appreciate it.

If you didn't already have engine swap plans, I would have suggested just to hone and rering the engine you have. It might have been a crap rebuild or it could have been the break-in. Many people have convoluted one-size-fits-all rituals for doing so that involve lots of running with minimal load. It's a holdover from the slider cam days. Couple that with modern materials, machining, and oil and it can result in unseated rings. Got a new roller cam engine? Put the boots to it.

Get this, I called the machine shop that did the block work, turns out this guy is brought them a bare block and said to punch it 30 over, so they did... making it a 060 over block. That's way too close for comfort on a 302 by my standards. They gave me a number for the guy so I called, turns out to be a used car dealership. Talked to the mechanic that put it together. He remembered the car well and proceeded to tell me that by customer request the engine was reassembled using ALL the old parts. By all I mean everything, including the old bearings on the mains and rods. Who does that?! He said the parts were not in great shape at all but the customer refused to by anything new. The only thing new were the pistons and rings. Now this is just me, but if I do nothing else I replace the bearings and rings. On that note, I have a boat anchor for sale if anyone is interested lol.

5point0stang88 · Dec 15, 2012

Insane lol there was a reason he remember it well because it's unusual

.:Sent from my Sprint Galaxy Note II:.

65ShelbyClone · Dec 16, 2012

MikeySmikey said:
Get this, I called the machine shop that did the block work, turns out this guy is brought them a bare block and said to punch it 30 over, so they did... making it a 060 over block. That's way too close for comfort on a 302 by my standards. They gave me a number for the guy so I called, turns out to be a used car dealership. Talked to the mechanic that put it together. He remembered the car well and proceeded to tell me that by customer request the engine was reassembled using ALL the old parts. By all I mean everything, including the old bearings on the mains and rods. Who does that?! He said the parts were not in great shape at all but the customer refused to by anything new. The only thing new were the pistons and rings. Now this is just me, but if I do nothing else I replace the bearings and rings. On that note, I have a boat anchor for sale if anyone is interested lol.

That does answer a lot of questions...even the unasked ones. Old bearings means the crank wasn't ground, so maybe you'd get lucky and find that it's still standard size. The block had already been opened up 0.060", though, so maybe not...

The 289 I got with my '68 was a similar case. It had been bored 0.060", the crank was 0.020/0.020" undersize, the rods had big sections of metal gone from balancing multiple times, and someone dimpled the block and intake manifold with a center punch to keep the end gaskets from moving. Fortunately A.) it was already out of the car so all I had to do was roll it into the trash and B.) I had my current 302 waiting on a stand.

5point0stang88 said:
".:Sent from my Sprint Galaxy Note II" added here because I can't be bothered to take 10 seconds to disable my phone's irritating signature that's as big as the body of my post:.

rd · Dec 17, 2012

302 stuff should be easy to find, as noted here, get another and plug in. I agree that v8 Explorer stuff seems easy to find these days. I got a short block from one for $75 incl core charge, to rebuild. Would not have been much more for the long block, but the guys looking for the heads found it and pulled it. Just put her in the wheelbarrow and carried it to the truck.

If I had efi, I would keep it. I have two carbed Foxes and at this point, want an efi toy. If you have one, conversion to the other has some issues either way, fuel pump for one.

scoozy58 · Apr 29, 2013

I have an '89 lx with a worked 306 and big idle/driveability issues. I am booked to spend $600 plus on a dyno session and chip flashing-I am betting all my eggs on this being the fix I need. If this car were naturally aspirated, there is ALOT more I could do at home to improve things, but as i do not have the diagnostic equipment, i am going to a pro. I am told that this EFI system is wonderful, yet after doing all I know to do (tps, fuel pressure, pump, correct timing, plugs, pcv, etc.) the situation is none the better. I have an '87 MK7, and cannot wait to lose the EFI as that gem has idle/running issues as well.

65ShelbyClone · Apr 30, 2013

scoozy58 said:
I have an '89 lx with a worked 306 and big idle/driveability issues. I am booked to spend $600 plus on a dyno session and chip flashing-......I am told that this EFI system is wonderful, yet after doing all I know to do (tps, fuel pressure, pump, correct timing, plugs, pcv, etc.) the situation is none the better. I have an '87 MK7, and cannot wait to lose the EFI as that gem has idle/running issues as well.

Any codes? Ever try the more in-depth running diagnostic modes? You don''t need tools for either, just a jumper wire.

For $600 you could almost get into a MegaSquirt PNP and do a lot of the tuning yourself, ditch the mass air, plus have a base map to start with. The Mustang's EEC-IV is one of, if not the most flexible engine computer of its era, but it still has a lot of limitations. Ease of tuning is one, processor speed another, and the youngest one is 18 years old.

scoozy58 · May 24, 2013

I went for the 'tune', got my plugs changed and told I need a new TPS; all for $300! What a deal! So, I am done: finito. kaput. As I can afford them, I am buying all the components for the carb conversion and saying adios to this pain in the rear EFI. I could throw money at this thing for a LONG time to come, and still not be driving; at least with carb, I feel I am moving into more familiar territory and future repair/maintenance/tweaking, will be more understandable.At this point, I am embracing the shortest route between me and drivability, tired of seeing the car just sit in the driveway.

65ShelbyClone · May 24, 2013

I'm telling you man, the problem isn't EFI....

jrichker · May 25, 2013

scoozy58 said:
I have an '89 lx with a worked 306 and big idle/driveability issues. I am booked to spend $600 plus on a dyno session and chip flashing-I am betting all my eggs on this being the fix I need. If this car were naturally aspirated, there is ALOT more I could do at home to improve things, but as i do not have the diagnostic equipment, i am going to a pro. I am told that this EFI system is wonderful, yet after doing all I know to do (tps, fuel pressure, pump, correct timing, plugs, pcv, etc.) the situation is none the better. I have an '87 MK7, and cannot wait to lose the EFI as that gem has idle/running issues as well.

You guys with idle problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix your idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix. :

It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 125,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.

scoozy58 · May 25, 2013

is a carb setup really THAT terrible? I'm not being a wiseguy, I just think that by going 'old school' if you will, I am simplifying fuel management.

scoozy58 · May 25, 2013

65ShelbyClone said:
I'm telling you man, the problem isn't EFI....

I am to the point where my friends and I have done all we know to do. Granted, no one is claiming bragging rights where knowledge is concerned, but even following the checklist, going thru the obvious and the suspicious, the car continues to fail because I have failed. I haven't the resources to keep throwing parts at this thing. I f it's not something in the fuel management, I don't know what it is.

65ShelbyClone · May 25, 2013

scoozy58 said:
is a carb setup really THAT terrible? I'm not being a wiseguy, I just think that by going 'old school' if you will, I am simplifying fuel management.

Carburetors are not terrible, but anything a carb can do, EFI can do better and EFI can do some things a carb simply cannot.

It could be something wrong with the EFI system, I won't lie about that. However, if your ultimate goal is drivability, then a carb swap is going backwards.

You don't seem to have a thread or post anywhere describing the exact problem, your exact setup, and everything you have done to fix it, so that would be a better place to start than throwing your arms up and going carb.

Gearbanger 101 · May 25, 2013

Take the money you're thinking of spending on backwards converting to carb and spend it on a tech who knows how to diagnose and repair your problem. There's no shame in having to take it else ware to fix a problem that's over your head. As the others have stated....you're going to be making a big mistake removing the EFI and downgrading to a carb. You'll spend twice the money and still end up with problems....just a different set of them.

lxman · May 27, 2013

The 86 harness is different from the 87-88 harness. There is a wire that runs behind the dash I've to the drivers side of dash from bulk of wires that plug into computer. FYI! I have a extra 86 harness if your interested and info on how to mass air convert it. I did it and I took 5 mins to wire it in and change computer. Hell if the mods want I will scan and upload the instructions on how to convert to mass air with the instructions that came in my pigtail kit! You just tap into a power and a ground and put in 2 pins into your connector for computer! Let me know guys. I think that could help a lot of speed density folks out on here!

Gearbanger 101 · May 27, 2013

lxman said:
The 86 harness is different from the 87-88 harness. There is a wire that runs behind the dash I've to the drivers side of dash from bulk of wires that plug into computer. FYI! I have a extra 86 harness if your interested and info on how to mass air convert it. I did it and I took 5 mins to wire it in and change computer. Hell if the mods want I will scan and upload the instructions on how to convert to mass air with the instructions that came in my pigtail kit! You just tap into a power and a ground and put in 2 pins into your connector for computer! Let me know guys. I think that could help a lot of speed density folks out on here!

Scan your it info, with a brief write up and PM it to me and I'll add it to the Tech section.

lxman · May 28, 2013

Ok no problem just give me a bit and hopefully I can have it done in a couple days.

scoozy58 · May 30, 2013

Gearbanger 101 said:
Take the money you're thinking of spending on backwards converting to carb and spend it on a tech who knows how to diagnose and repair your problem. There's no shame in having to take it else ware to fix a problem that's over your head. As the others have stated....you're going to be making a big mistake removing the EFI and downgrading to a carb. You'll spend twice the money and still end up with problems....just a different set of them.

ok, I am beginning to see how complicated this can get. I will seek out a local tech I have heard of, just frustrated. But it's only money so, it's all good. Thanks for the advice guys!

clemsonf250 · May 30, 2013

lxman said:
The 86 harness is different from the 87-88 harness. There is a wire that runs behind the dash I've to the drivers side of dash from bulk of wires that plug into computer. FYI! I have a extra 86 harness if your interested and info on how to mass air convert it. I did it and I took 5 mins to wire it in and change computer. Hell if the mods want I will scan and upload the instructions on how to convert to mass air with the instructions that came in my pigtail kit! You just tap into a power and a ground and put in 2 pins into your connector for computer! Let me know guys. I think that could help a lot of speed density folks out on here!

which harness is it?

lxman · May 30, 2013

Which harness for what?

found out i have wrong engine!!!

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