found the problem cost for labor and parts

Its not that hard to do, you can do it yourself, pu the car up on jack stands support the tank witha floor jack and unbolt the fuel tanks straps and lower the tank down and disconnect everything. should take an hour or so to do i dont think it would take 3 hours

do it yourself in an afternoon

thats more than i would spend...it may be a good price but something as easy as installing a fuel pump i would do myself for about $100 cost of the pump ...click on link below for instructions on replacing fuel pump...
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/scinpump.html

if the lock ring is rusty enough to be a big pain to get off then I would guess the tank is as rusty and would have been leaking a while ago....

just tap it counter clockwise with a hammer and a flat screwdriver

Thats a good price for labor and parts. But it is an easy job that can be tackled in a Saturday afternoon.

I was just going to ask this question...lol. Mind if I hi-jack your thread and ask a few questions?

Should I get a 190 lph fuel pump on a stock GT? (I plan mods but no blower)

Also I am getting a good amount of hesitation and jerking almost like the car is out of gas on deceleration. But it even out and doesnt do it when I am on a even pull. Could that be the fuel pump and or something else? (This is what made me think fuel pump or fuel filter. Anyway to test what it is?

Thanks

thats a rip off man. I did my fuel pump change in 45 minutes tops with a jack and some garage tools. You can buy a 190lph kit for like 70-75 bucks and save 225 bucks

its easy i did it at 16 with no instructions and it didnt take me much more than an hour

just make sure your low on gas

Here are some useful tips...

I have done the tank removal twice, and the main issues are getting the car up on jack stands and getting the gas out of the tank. DO NOT try to do this job without jack stands. Becoming a pancake is not part of the repair process.

Some 5 gallon paint pails lined with garbage bags are good to hold the gas. The garbage bags provide a clean liner for the pails and keep the loose trash out of the gas so you can reuse it. A piece of 1/2" garden hose stuck down the filler neck will siphon all but a gallon or so of the gas.

Remove the filler neck bolts and put them in a zip bag. Disconnect the supply & return lines by removing the plastic clips from the metal tubing. If you damage the clips you can use tie-wraps as a substitute when you re-assemble them. Then you remove the two 9/16" nuts that hold the T bolts to the straps. Put the nuts in the zip bag with the filler bolts. Pull the plastic shield down and away from the tank. Once the tank drops a little bit you can disconnect the wiring for the pump & fuel quantity sender.

The pump assembly comes out by removing a large metal ring that unscrews from the tank. You are supposed to use a brass punch to tap on the ring so that you don't make sparks. Look closely at the rubber O ring gasket when you remove the sender. The pump assembly requires some twisting and turning to get it out the hole.

Look very closely at the electrical wiring. The stock wiring can overheat and melt the insulation. Mine had some really crummy plastic tubing slid over the quick disconnects. If the wires ever got together, there would be sparks inside the fuel tank and no more Mustang. I eliminated the splice in the middle of the wiring and went straight from the pump to the feed through connectors for the wiring. It required some soldering and crimping of new tabs on the wires, but it made a neater job.

Inspect the pump mount to metal tubing bracket. Mine broke and I couldn't get it to solder back together. I drilled a small hole for a machine screw & self locking nut to hold the clamp and bracket together.

The pump is easy to get off the mount but is somewhat difficult to get back it the tank without damaging the sock filter or tearing it on the tank baffle. When you install the metal ring that holds the pump in place, watch out for the gasket O ring. Some RTV may be helpful if the ring is not in excellent condition.

The tank to filler pipe seal is a large rubber grommet. Inspect it for hardening, tears and damage. At $20 from the Ford dealer, it might be a good idea to replace it.

I used a floor jack to help lift the tank back in place. You may find that it is the only time you really can make good use of a helper.

I like to blow the top of the tank with a blow gun before removing the locking ring....and then again after the ring is off and the pump in place to keep as much crap out of the tank as I can

oh and spray some thich sray lube like Krown on the tank.