Fox Body Light Bar Install

So, bear with me guys. It was 98 degrees in the shade, I was by myself with a bad back so I didn't take as many pics as probably I should have.. Now this is on a 1990 that is an easier install than a 87-89 do to less cutting of the rear inner panel Also my light bar had no light so there was no wiring needed of the light, but that is easy as tapping into the brake light circuit and a ground...

So... here goes

• Tools needed
• Safety glasses
  
• Phllips head screwdriver
• I used 3/8" a socket set with a thumb racthet, regular ratchet, and a swivel and extension
  
• 7/16" socket
• 1/2" socket
• Center Punch
• hammer
  
• Electric drill
• 1/8" drill bit
  
• 1 3/4 " CARBIDE hole saw
• Step up drill bit
• Masking tape
  
• 4 self tapping 2" bolts with 1/2" inch bolt heads and washers

First, obviously lower the top all the way and all of the windows. I covered the rear seat, inside the top and on the fenders with towels as you never know when you will bang or drop something on your nice paint or interrior.

See that 1 3./4" hole saw? hahahaha went through that in 30 seconds which I will get to later.

Download the following instructions that contains the template to use- again there are two different instructions and templates depending on the year

https://www.abcexclusive.com/instructions/Styling Bar 700 Installation.pdf



I started with the passenger side


lay the template over the quarter panel lining up the marks for the chrome trim and edges. I put masking tape under the spot where to drill to protect the panel against fraying. I measured the actuall distance and it is about 2" from the chrome molding and 2 1/2" from the front edge to the center pilot hole


center punched for the 1/8" pilot hole


flip the template over and repeat on the driver side




Using the 1/8" drill, you will need to drill through 3 layers- the top vinyl plastic, a metal support under the plastic and then about an inch later a thicker metal support bracket... ( remember that orignal hole saw that was toasted)

Next using the 1 3/4" hole saw you will need to drill through all 3 layers.

Which will leave you with this hole- you have gone through the top 2. still need to drill through the 1/4" support bracket.. that wiped out my old hole saw sooooooo




After a trip to Home Depot and $20 later.. a Carbide 1 3/4" hole saw... more power baby

After drilling through the metal support you will still most likely need to tweek the holes do to these cars being as straight as a pretzel as far as panel fit.. I had to open up the holes more toward the inner portion with the step bit on a 1/2" drill ( more inside of the car)

After a bit of wrangling, fitting and expanding the holes, the bar will slide down. It is a tight fit but I'd rather have it tight than flopping all over so take your time.. The masking tape is on the bar for when you test fitment of the top against rubbing- if it does you can move the bar to either side by adding washers to one side or the other, Mine was fine as is with one washer on each bolt.

Now let me save you some time and effort. Do NOT follow the instructions in that you DO NOT need to remove the back seat or rear inner panels if your car has removable speaker grills if you do not need to wire the bar for a brake light. You can access the area for securing the light bar easily with the rear speaker grill and speaker moved out of the way, SImply unscrew the two phillips head screws located by the volume button on the speaker towards the rear of the car and lay the speaker on the rear seat.

The bar has two holes on each side that you wil use to secure it. You will remove the original small screws with a 7/16" socket. The new screws I bought were 1/2" head. This picture is turned on its side as obviously the bar goes in vertical. I am tightening the new lower screw in this picture.

original screws- they go through the window regulator


Lightbar wrapped for testing of fitment of top against scuffing. You can see the driver side rear speaker grille and speaker removed providing ample access

Testing the fitment with the top up.. plenty of room on both sides



now, it's simply a matter of tightening down the screws,,,, putting the speaker grills back on, removing the masking tape, and you're done


Here's what it looks like installed..

Here is what you have drilled out. You can see why you need a carbide hole saw.... I am keeping the pieces I drilled out just in case I ever decide to remove the light bar. I will jb weld back the metal piecces and plastic weld the plastic piece and then use some black resin to fill the gap.



There you have it fellas.. 3 hours including me going to HD, stopping to take pictures as I was alone. The only complaint is the bar doesn't sit competely flush on one side but they never due because of the pitch of the panel....