Fox body struts for 03 GT?

I'm running the shorter KYB AGX up front.

The idea of the shorter struts on a lowered car is to get the strut piston closer to it's center of travel. This means more suspension travel before you bang the bump stops. Shorter struts or c/c plates that alow you to space the strut up into the engine compartment farther does the job. Use the rear shocks for your year car. If you've got an external bump stop mounted on the frame or over the diff housing get a shorter one or shave the one you have in half.

My buddy had the tokico HP blues (fox length) in the front, they blew out after 500 miles (fluid everywhere)...he had the spacing set perfectly and everything. So he switched to bils and all is well hah.

Yeah, shorter struts are a good idea if your dropping 2" or more, but so many folks on here have done it either way it doesnt really matter.

Talk the guys at MaximumMotorsports if you really need specific advice. Personally I recommend the AGX set-up that I have because its cheap and adjustable (a lot easier to adjust my 8 way rears than the tokicos too).

The struts on your car have internal bump stops. I'm not sure, but I don't believe the rear shocks do. There should be a bump stop on the frame or over the diff housing. If not, the rear shocks have the internal stops as well.

Most mfg struts and shocks for your car will work with a drop of up to 1.5". When you get to 2" is when you need to start worrying about strut/shock piston travel and bump stops. If I remember correctly the Steeda springs only drop about 1" so you should be fine with struts and shocks for your year without any worry.

Bilsteins are deffinately stiffer then stock but not as stiff as Koni's. I went with KYB-AGX adjustable so I could dial in the ride I wanted. I have mine set at at 2 in the front and 3 or 4 in the back on my daily driver. Slightly stiffer then stock, but not at all harsh. You'll like'em.