like the title say how in gods name do you get them back in i got the compresser that goes inside the spring and the spring is compressed but how do you get it into the upper pocket now? Please any help is appreciated iam at my wits end
front coil springs please help
- Thread starter payupsucka
- Start date
if u got the stock springs out, which are taller, than the lowering springs should go in without a big deal. u need to disconnect the control arm from the spindle by the ball joint. take the nut off that holds the ball joint to the spindle or even easier take the 2 bolts out that connect the spindle to the strut. that will bring the control arm down in rder to get the spring in. another thing, throw that spring compressor in the garbage.
isn't this funny, i'm here giving u help and u called me a gaylord because i dont agree with that redneck killing those innocent "yotes", as i guess hicks call them. i take all my help back and i hope u have to have your car towed somewhere and pay out the ass to have them put in right, better yet i hope that ****in spring flies out and decapitates your stupid ass. u have no business in these forums if u cant even put in a set of springs u chowderhead.
If using an internal spring compressor, you might need to create a shim under the head of the middle bolt (that tightens the compressor). I used a piece of pipe from the home store.
I had to play with the butterflies to get them so they would be removable once the spring was back in place.
Good luck.
I had to play with the butterflies to get them so they would be removable once the spring was back in place.
Good luck.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter 
If you have the correct spring compressor it has 2 flat plates and a threaded rod that goes up through the center. If I remember right the forcing nut on the shaft is 21 or 22 mm. Its really easy once its cranked down and in place with the springtail between the 2 holes in the lower A Arm. Just loosen the focing nut until the pressure is relieved and then slip the plates out of the coils.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
Yes, it was over $200, but well worth the investment for me as it made my spring swap so much easier.
rsw007
New Member
compress the spring outside the car get several wire coat hangers and strap the spring with the wires remove compresser then install, bolt it up, then cut wires and pull them out. saffer if you can band them with with banding materials. JUST BE CAREFUL
Son, you got brass!rsw007 said:
Having uncoiled springs on the bench before, I could not begin to try this - I fear the potential energy in those springs too much (I would worry about the coat hangers letting go).I might do the MFE method before trying this. As I always say, to each his own.
stangnutlx
New Member
I bought the factory Ford front coil spring compressor for mustangs. owned it about a year and have done about 9 cars.... ill rent it out....lol
well as long as your mother is clean i should be alright because i love to run through her every night, then again i dont know how many other dudes shes whoring out 2. i was kind of dissapointed to hear from u, i thought for sure that spring got the best of u. well if that didn't something else will, like changing your air filter. can u handle that sucka (how gay r u).
axeman
Founding Member
Grow up people.
The way I replace front springs is to remove the bolts that bolt the A-arm to the K-member. No spring compressors needed.
The way I replace front springs is to remove the bolts that bolt the A-arm to the K-member. No spring compressors needed.
Hissing Cobra
Founding Member
Payupsucka, hey it's Pete with the Yellow '79 Cobra. When I did mine, I used my brother's homemade spring compressor and it worked like a charm. It was my first time ever doing a spring job and I was able to do it without a problem.
Go to a hardware store and buy a 1/2" or 3/4" threaded rod with two nuts (long enough to go through the entire spring.) Also buy two flat pieces of steel (wide enough to lay on top of the spring, possibly 4" long by 2" wide.) You'll probably spend $10.00. Drill a hole through the center of each that's big enough for the threaded rod to go through.
Next, put the spring in place and stick the threaded rod through the bottom of the A-Arm and up through the spring. When near the top of the spring, slide one of the flat pieces in (under the top coil and resting on the top of the next coil down. Thread the nut on it. Next, install the other flat piece of steel on the bottom and nut that. Then, tighten the bottom nut enough so that the spring compresses. Keep raising the floor jack that's under the A-arm until the spring is in the top pocket. Once there, install the strut and tighten. You're now done and can remove the threaded rod by removing the nuts and pulling the rod out through the bottom (you may have to jack up the car a liitle more to do this.
Believe me, it's easy as pie and because the rod is in the middle, you won't have to worry about the spring exploding in your face. If you go this route, good luck!
Go to a hardware store and buy a 1/2" or 3/4" threaded rod with two nuts (long enough to go through the entire spring.) Also buy two flat pieces of steel (wide enough to lay on top of the spring, possibly 4" long by 2" wide.) You'll probably spend $10.00. Drill a hole through the center of each that's big enough for the threaded rod to go through.
Next, put the spring in place and stick the threaded rod through the bottom of the A-Arm and up through the spring. When near the top of the spring, slide one of the flat pieces in (under the top coil and resting on the top of the next coil down. Thread the nut on it. Next, install the other flat piece of steel on the bottom and nut that. Then, tighten the bottom nut enough so that the spring compresses. Keep raising the floor jack that's under the A-arm until the spring is in the top pocket. Once there, install the strut and tighten. You're now done and can remove the threaded rod by removing the nuts and pulling the rod out through the bottom (you may have to jack up the car a liitle more to do this.
Believe me, it's easy as pie and because the rod is in the middle, you won't have to worry about the spring exploding in your face. If you go this route, good luck!
can you elaborate on that did you drop the control arm and then use a jack to push it up ? i have never done springs before and the ford motorsport c springs are very much shorter than stockers so i dont know what to doaxeman said:
axeman
Founding Member
It's been a while but...........
1) set the car on jackstands by the K-member
2) place a big floor jack under the control arm(I think you can place it on the spring pocket)
3) loosen the conrol arm to K-member bolts and jack the control arm up enough to releive the tension on the bolts
4) remove the bolts and slowly lower the control arm
5) the spring should fall right out
6) put new spring in and jack the control arm up
The hardest part of this method is lining up the holes to get the bolts back in. It will take a little persuasion from a pry bar/screwdriver. The biggest floor jack you can find will work the best. A smaller one does not jack up as high resulting in the control arm being jacked up and out toward you. A really big one will jack it almost straight up and the bigger the jacking point the more stable and safe.
Lowering springs will be easier to install because there is less tension on the springs when trying to line the holes up.
If you can find MFE's write-up, read that over. I've read it before and it covers everything.
1) set the car on jackstands by the K-member
2) place a big floor jack under the control arm(I think you can place it on the spring pocket)
3) loosen the conrol arm to K-member bolts and jack the control arm up enough to releive the tension on the bolts
4) remove the bolts and slowly lower the control arm
5) the spring should fall right out
6) put new spring in and jack the control arm up
The hardest part of this method is lining up the holes to get the bolts back in. It will take a little persuasion from a pry bar/screwdriver. The biggest floor jack you can find will work the best. A smaller one does not jack up as high resulting in the control arm being jacked up and out toward you. A really big one will jack it almost straight up and the bigger the jacking point the more stable and safe.
Lowering springs will be easier to install because there is less tension on the springs when trying to line the holes up.
If you can find MFE's write-up, read that over. I've read it before and it covers everything.
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