Front drum won't come off

[Baaah]

I've got a 65 mustang with drums all around and I'm trying to take the front drums off. Only problem is, they won't budge. Is there any sort of trick that I don't know of to get these things off. I've already tried the old beat it with a hammer trick, but that didn't even budge them. Its the same way for both left and right. The rears come off like nothing tho.

 

[Hack]

The brakes rub on the middle of the side of the drum, so there's a ridge worn into the drum that you have to get past. There's two methods I know of.

1. "they" say that you can open the little access port at the bottom of the backing plate - make DARN sure your car is safely blocked up before getting under there. - anyway open the port and rotate the adjuster to get the pads away from the drum. I have never been able to make that happen.

2. The geometry of drums is set up so that they lock harder when they start to grab. What that means to you is that you can slightly rotate the drum on the wheel studs, and use the geometry to help you get the drum off. If you rotate the drum in the direction it would turn if the car was moving backwards, the pads will more easily move out of the way. I hope this makes sense. So you pull and twist, repeat as necessary. If you twist the wrong way, the pads will lock harder on the drum.

Then when you have the drum off, take a grinder (safety glasses) and grind off the ridge. I hope this helps.

 

[65fastback2+2]

#1. "they" say that you can open the little access port at the bottom of the backing plate - make DARN sure your car is safely blocked up before getting under there. - anyway open the port and rotate the adjuster to get the pads away from the drum. I have never been able to make that happen.

works really well, ronstang used this method for taking my rear drums off.

 

[Baaah]

thanks, ill try that out

 

[Hack]

#1. "they" say that you can open the little access port at the bottom of the backing plate - make DARN sure your car is safely blocked up before getting under there. - anyway open the port and rotate the adjuster to get the pads away from the drum. I have never been able to make that happen.

works really well, ronstang used this method for taking my rear drums off.

How do you/ronstang manage to see the lever you have to push away from the star wheel, hold the lever and rotate the star wheel all at the same time? Or is it done by feel? Any tips?

 

[dodgestang]

I assume you have pulled the grease cap, removed the cotter pin and spun off the retaining nut......right?

 

[Baaah]

I assume you have pulled the grease cap, removed the cotter pin and spun off the retaining nut......right?

DO I LOOK LIKE A MORON TO YOU!!!


Err, no I didn't do that. I thought it would be like the rears, just pull em off

 

[3spd on floor]

I assume you have pulled the grease cap, removed the cotter pin and spun off the retaining nut......right?

my thoughts exactly.

 

[Ronstang]

There is no need to push the adjusting lever out of the way, but you do need a brake spoon which you should be able to get at any autoparts store because a screwdriver just isn't going to do the job. Once you have the tool the work is done by feel. Remember that if you go under the star-wheel and pull down on the spoon you will be tightening the shoes and if you go above the star-wheel and pull up you will be loosening the shoes. When loosening the shoes is is a little harder since you have to overcome the pressure of the adjuster lever but it will ratchet out of the way fine. Just sit with the drum in front of your chest and you legs out under the car, then reach around and use the spoon. It is quite easy once you get the hang of it. If you have a drum already off you can practice while watching the brakes to get a better feel for the job.

BTW....this is also how you are supposed to adjust the brakes.....hehehe

 

[brianj5600]

Uh, I used a screw driver on mine. It wasn't easy, but faster than going to the store for a tool. I pushed at the top or bottom of the star wheel instead of prying. It wasn't too hard though.

 

[Baaah]

well, the old take off the retaining nut trick worked. Drum slid right off. Then I had the pleasure of beating the crap out of the studs and beating the crap out of some nice shiny new arp studs. One down, 3 to go. Any advice for putting new studs into the rear axles...I don't want to take them(axles) completely out and after doing the front, it seems like its gonna be a major pain.

 

[3spd on floor]

if you can knock the old studs out of the axle without removing the axle, getting the new ones in is easy. Usually what i do is leave one or two of the original studs in place, only replacing 3 or so. Then you put the drum/wheel on and tighten lug nuts around the new studs, as you crank down on them it will pull them into the hub til they're nicely seated. Then do it again with the last few.

also, make sure you follow the book when you put those front drums back on the spindles.

 

[allcarfan]

plasma cutter

 

[Hack]

BTW....this is also how you are supposed to adjust the brakes.....hehehe

Hehe, yes I am a moron.

The directions I have read say to hold the adjuster out of the way or else you can damage the teeth on the star adjuster wheel. I could never manage both tasks at once.

I realize that you're supposed to adjust the brakes that way. Since I couldn't do it correctly, what I have done is to get the pads out as far as possible, pulling the drum on and off a few times. It's very easy to turn the adjuster with the drum off. Then when I have it as close as I can get it, I use the self adjust feature of the drums... Just drive forward, then reverse, apply the brakes firmly, repeat a few times.

It works.