Front End And Disc Brakes

Andrew La Roche,
There are several potential downsides of a rack an pinion conversion:
>Many or most R&P setups give a wider maximum turning radius
>Most cause exhaust header clearance issues, seriously limiting your choice of headers
>Many R&P create a bump steer problem
>Some setups have poor mounting systems.
>High price for the better setups

As far as the Borgeson box:

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catal...ersion_Box_Components-orderby_0-p-1-c-60.html

They list 2 different boxes for 1967, as it was a transition year for the pitman arms. If I recall, there may have been differences in the steering column from early to late 67 as well. For these reasons, they don't list the "kits" for 67, but have all the parts for whichever 67 setup you currently have. From what you have said, it sounds as though your setup possibly came from a 68. If this is the case we need to help you determine if they used the 68 box and possibly column as well. Once you know what you have, calling Borgeson for the "kit" is a piece of cake. Many folks have had good luck using their original pump setup and simply installing the box.

As for brakes, CSRP has a pretty wide variety of reasonably priced options:

http://www.discbrakeswap.com/

I have installed several of their various kits and found them to be absolutely complete, easy to istall and they provide excellent customer service/product support.
HTH,
Gene

One easy way to tell if your column is 67 or 68 is to look at where the steering shaft attaches to the steering box. If the shaft appears to be part of the box it is the older and if it has a rag joint, like this:

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catalog/Rag_Joint_11_1636_X_3_436-p-581.html

it is likely a 68 or later box and column. You still need to measure the pitman arm shaft to determine if it's 1" or 1-1/8" as a lot can have happened/been swapped in the 45 years since that car left the factory. Personally, I would get a 1-1/8" pitman arm from Borgeson for $54 and use a manual steering centerlink/drag link as opposed to using their adapter to power steering linkage. While I've not heard any serious problems using the adapter, it just seems a bit like jerry rigging to me.
HTH,
Gene

If you go with the Borgeson setup and a brake kit from CSRP you'd likely come in between $1K-ish for basic and $2K-ish if you replace all tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. and you could likely do it in a weekend. While it's apart is the perfect time to rebuild/upgrade ALL front suspension and steering parts. Most upgraded replacement parts only cost a little more than stock type stuff. You can spend a pile of $$$$ on upgrades, if you want, or you can simply put better than OEM replacements on. One definite upgrade is rollerized spring perches, you can either buy them for about $180 or rollerize your old ones (if you can weld or have a buddy who can) for about $60:

http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/test

The sky is the limit when it comes to suspension, but NOW is the time to plan and do it all at once so that all the parts play well together. I personally like this setup (New Kit #6770TCA-ULK-S) for the suspension:

http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/2006/NewFiles/NovaSubFrame.htm

add a pair of roller perches and you're golden.
To sum up what I think would be a good plan:
1> Borgeson box with your existing pump with manual steering center link and pitman arm $800-ish. Have your hoses made locally.
2> All new tie rod ends and idler arm $150-ish
3> Roller spring perches $60-$190
4> CPP setup $689
5> CSRP Brake swap kit #2511 or #1411 $524
This puts you in the $2300-$2500 ballpark (depending on shipping) and leaves you with EVERYTHING in the front end new and upgraded, except for the springs and shocks AND disc brakes. You would likely not have to touch anything up front for many years and 50K + miles, except brake pads! If you opt not to use the CPP suspension kit, you could knock MAYBE $300 of the overall price, as you would still likely need to do upper & lower control arms or bushings, shafts and ball joints, strut rod bushings, etc. to have it all new. The problem with the OEM style stuff is that most replacement pieces are JUNK! For example, I spent the extra $$$ for supposedly better upper control arms with shafts and ball joints and after only 11K miles the shafts are getting loose already!
Sorry For The Long Post,
Gene