front spring/rack & pinoin/P.S. pump intall. did search

You can kind of treat the steering components and springs separate (rack and pump go together obviously). Just leave the outer tie rods loose if you do the rack first.

Good luck.

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.

The high pressure hoses have an “O” ring at the fitting end and will swivel even when the fitting is completely tightened. They are factory assembled and not repairable – if any end is damaged, replace the hose assembly.

jmd2914 said:

thanks guys, so for the pump all i have to do other than the lines is just take my belt off and unbolt it from the motor? oh and how do i get the pulley off the old one adn get it on the new one?

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Once you have the pump out of the car, you remove it from its snail shell bracket, then install the new pump in the bracket. Then install the pulley.

I would use a pulley removal and install tool from the parts store (they loan them out).

Good luck.

I'd get both the removal and the install tool. Some pumps come with a bolt and nut that you can use to reinstall the pulley, but I have stripped them before getting it all the way on. The installer tool solves that problem.

RD is right on. I've tried the included bolt and half the time it wont seat the pulley all the way, esp if the pulley hub has mushroomed a little.

The install tool is the way to go.

Good luck.

You will need to rent or buy a PS steering puller. The PS pulley has a ridge that the puller seats on. Then you crank the screw on the middle of the puller to get the pulley off the shaft.



You can rent the tool at Autozone or an auto parts stores.

I have used a bearing separator & harmonic balancer puller together to do the job.

Use this tool to put it back on...



I usually just use the bolt that comes with the new PS pump.

jmd2914 said:

how do you use the bearing separator and harmonic balancer puller at the same time to get it off?

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The bearing separator clamps the groove on the front of the pulley and the harmonic balancer puller uses the bolt holes in the bearing separator to bolt up to.

bearing separator:


Harmonic balancer puller: