Low difficulty level. Just pull the upper manifold (10 mins); be sure to lay a strip of duct tape across the open lower manifold ports so you don't drop anything in (1 min); get the old regulator off (20-30 mins including fumble time with the hex key); install the new one (30-50 mins also including fumble time with the hex key); turn key to ON NOT START to charge the fuel rail and check for leaks (3 mins); reinstall the upper manifold (15 mins). The only trick is that you need to work the hex wrench upside down on the bottom of the regulator, and it takes some nimble finger work. But it can be done. I might suggest having a large assortment of hex keys at hand, since one might work better than another even if they're both the correct size. Also, if you just can't master the hex key thing, you can always pull the entire fuel rail off, although then you've got to concern yourself with re-seating the injectors in their holes and generally getting it back on. That might add a need for new injector o-rings on to the job. Also, be advised that a pressure gauge is really a must for a new regulator, since you still need to adjust it. I got an Autometer unit from MuscleMotors.com for about $40 that permanently mounts to the test valve on the fuel rail just behind the alternator. But if you can change plugs and wires, this is within your ability. Oh yes, don't forget that there are two upper manifold bolts under the 5.0 H-O plate on top of the upper manifold. Some have managed to break their upper by prying on it after forgetting these bolts. The upper should just lift off. You may also want to get a new upper-to-lower gasket from Pep Boys. Good luck.