Yeah, that V-TEC is killer. It's like nitrous without nitrous. Damn, I love Honduhs too...haha Pressure regulator can't be too hard to install, however I've never done it. Maybe someone else will give you some pointers... bumpppp
I changed mine out when I did a valve cover gasket replacement. Since I had everything apart and had the clearance it was pretty much a snap. Just had to tweak it to get the car to start then adjust for the correct pressure.
Besides, I didn't think you were allowed to play "one bitchin' Lynyrd Skynyrd cd" in a Honda
It's an easy job, personally I'd unbolt the upper intake and move it out of the way (not remove, just move), then you'll have clear access to the regulator.
If that is all it takes to make you wish you bought a Honda, then you should trade it for a Honda. Like stated above, pull the upper intake, it will make it much easier. Relieve the fuel pressure at the schrader valve or with the inertia switch first. The regulator is held on the fuel rail with 3 allen head bolts. Take your time, it is tedious. Make sure you use the little rubber gasket that comes with it. If you are using a stock type non-adjustable fpr, I would get a Motorcraft part for about $50.
easy - 1st time took me about an hour - I got an adjustable Kirban unit from CJ Pony parts and it came with the allen wrenches, new gasket, new allen bolts and instructions. I did NOT remove the upper plenum or the throttle body (remember that the coolant runs through that and will be messy if you take that off) But I did take the throttle cable loose and the carbon crudded up EGR thing off the back of the throttle body (2 nuts and cleaned it up with carb cleaner and a tooth brush making sure I did not hurt the gasket) I had to twist my hands in that tight space but it was very doable with no real problems - don't be afraid - it is actually not as bad as it seems it will be.
Low difficulty level. Just pull the upper manifold (10 mins); be sure to lay a strip of duct tape across the open lower manifold ports so you don't drop anything in (1 min); get the old regulator off (20-30 mins including fumble time with the hex key); install the new one (30-50 mins also including fumble time with the hex key); turn key to ON NOT START to charge the fuel rail and check for leaks (3 mins); reinstall the upper manifold (15 mins). The only trick is that you need to work the hex wrench upside down on the bottom of the regulator, and it takes some nimble finger work. But it can be done. I might suggest having a large assortment of hex keys at hand, since one might work better than another even if they're both the correct size. Also, if you just can't master the hex key thing, you can always pull the entire fuel rail off, although then you've got to concern yourself with re-seating the injectors in their holes and generally getting it back on. That might add a need for new injector o-rings on to the job. Also, be advised that a pressure gauge is really a must for a new regulator, since you still need to adjust it. I got an Autometer unit from MuscleMotors.com for about $40 that permanently mounts to the test valve on the fuel rail just behind the alternator. But if you can change plugs and wires, this is within your ability. Oh yes, don't forget that there are two upper manifold bolts under the 5.0 H-O plate on top of the upper manifold. Some have managed to break their upper by prying on it after forgetting these bolts. The upper should just lift off. You may also want to get a new upper-to-lower gasket from Pep Boys. Good luck.