FUEL PROBLEM??WHAT??

[fastfords4]

For about the last two weeks my car has had no balls(started happening out of nowhere)....if i floor it, it will fall on its face and bog but the rpms still climb i just dont go fast....it cuts out and almost sounds like a miss but all the headers are hot to a wet finger test so i dont think there is a miss....all my plugs and wires are snug...idk what it could be.....sometimes it back fires when i get off the gas and sometimes when i start to roll into the throttle it will backfire also, but if i do roll into it its a little bit better (less cutting out)....one buddy thinks its and injector clogged and another thinks my fuel pump is just starting to go....either way we think it is a fuel problem and its not getting enough somewhere?? i have a mostly stock 89 5.0 (stock mass air, stock injectors, stock fuel pump) i also just replaced my fuel filter and ran a bottle of fuel system cleaner through a tank of gas not too long before this just started happening. I have no clue what it really is but itscan a PITA so if anyone lend some pointers in diagnosing it i would greatly appreicate it!

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.