Fuel Tank Filler Grommet

I'm going to be replacing my fuel tank grommet soon and I need all the help I can get. From the searches I've done, about 50% of the threads are saying I need to drop the fuel tank, the other half says no. I get the feeling that if I just unbolt the fuel tank straps I can force the tank over enough to get that filler neck out. For those of you who have done this, what did you end up doing? Seems like I remember a member who recently when through this? I know the basic rundown to replace the grommet but any tips/advice would be greatly appreciated. You know its getting time to replace these things when you can smell gas from two blocks away:

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Had to do this on both my 96' and 87' GT's last year. It can be done without dropping the tank, IMO droping the tank on a SN95 is a 30 min job, but if you have never done it before, or for a person with limited skills that write up is a perfect option.
 
I went to my local ford parts dept. bought the gasket for $28,and fully intended to replace it myself (1994 Gt vert). On the way home I stopped by the local auto repair garage to see how much I would be saving. I was quoted $90-$100. For that amount I figured I would'nt mess with it. When I went to pick it up he charged me $68. Said the job didn't take as long as he thought it would.
 
FWIIW, the Ford service manual recommends completely cutting away the grommet before removing the filler neck.

Why?

Because the filler neck check value is easily damaged by pulling it out backwards through the grommet. The check value can not be serviced thus making a new filler neck necessary.

For those of you reading this post, also remember that the filler neck on 98 and older Mustangs is now an obsolete part. So should you break the filler neck, a trip to the salvage yard may be in your future.

My advice. The Mustang's tank is easy to drop. IMO, there is little to be saved by not dropping it. BUT once dropped, it's possible to inspect the contents of the tank. Any debris inside the tank can be cleaned out (remember the part about cutting out the old grommet?).

One other thing. Check under the filler neck plastic guard for rust through. Sometimes the plastic guard will retain moisture and rust through is the result.
 
FWIIW, the Ford service manual recommends completely cutting away the grommet before removing the filler neck.

Why?

Because the filler neck check value is easily damaged by pulling it out backwards through the grommet. The check value can not be serviced thus making a new filler neck necessary.

For those of you reading this post, also remember that the filler neck on 98 and older Mustangs is now an obsolete part. So should you break the filler neck, a trip to the salvage yard may be in your future.

My advice. The Mustang's tank is easy to drop. IMO, there is little to be saved by not dropping it. BUT once dropped, it's possible to inspect the contents of the tank. Any debris inside the tank can be cleaned out (remember the part about cutting out the old grommet?).

One other thing. Check under the filler neck plastic guard for rust through. Sometimes the plastic guard will retain moisture and rust through is the result.


That's some pretty good advice fellas. I've been on this site to know burns knows his stuff. Not saying that you can't get the job done without having to drop the tank but it seems a bit more logical to inspect for further damage and remove the parts that fall into the tank.
 
FWIIW, the Ford service manual recommends completely cutting away the grommet before removing the filler neck.

Why?

Because the filler neck check value is easily damaged by pulling it out backwards through the grommet. The check value can not be serviced thus making a new filler neck necessary.

For those of you reading this post, also remember that the filler neck on 98 and older Mustangs is now an obsolete part. So should you break the filler neck, a trip to the salvage yard may be in your future.

My advice. The Mustang's tank is easy to drop. IMO, there is little to be saved by not dropping it. BUT once dropped, it's possible to inspect the contents of the tank. Any debris inside the tank can be cleaned out (remember the part about cutting out the old grommet?).

One other thing. Check under the filler neck plastic guard for rust through. Sometimes the plastic guard will retain moisture and rust through is the result.

Burns knows his stuff, this is all good info.

Just a quick update after the install. The write up that Nyuk98gt submitted is nearly flawless, the step by steps are great with the pictures. However I just want to add this: you are 99.999% sure to break the check valve if you do not drop the tank. Trust me, I spent over 2 hours trying to wedge the filler neck out of there without breaking it. It is physically and spatially impossible. Just take the time to drop the tank and do it right. Everything else is cheesecake.

That being said, breaking the check valve was kind of a blessing in disguise. For one, my filler neck has almost completely rusted through (as a result of moisture or salt buildup), so I will have to get a new one. Secondly, the very tip end of the check valve dropped down in the tank and I couldnt fish it out (the very end plastic piece not the spring or the valve). I finally just gave up and resolved to drop the tank another day.

I figure I need to get that check valve out and new filler neck asap. The question is, what problems can I have from breaking the check valve? Will this cause the service engine light to come on agian? Thanks for everybody's responses so far, they have been tremendously helpful :nice:
 
IMO, you should have no problems what so ever (assuming that any pieces are removed from the tank).

Remember that the check value is NOT serviceable. When you buy a new filler neck (yours is rusted out), the new filler neck will come with a new check valve.