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Full length sub frames on a convertible question

  • Thread starter Thread starter teamtruett
  • Start date Start date Jul 16, 2005
T

teamtruett

New Member
Jul 30, 2002
18
0
1
Hopewell NY
Jul 16, 2005
#1
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #1
Cant seem to fine an answer anywhere. A fox convertible has factory reinforcing plates that are riveted over the rear torque boxes and the front of the car has a pair as well and tie into a riveted brace that runs along the rocker panel. A set of full length sub frames with torque box plates (steeda) would run on top of these. My concern is with the rear factory plates, what do I have to cut/modify to use the steeda supplied torque box plates. Right now all 4 factory plates are off the car to be repainted. Any pics would help out GREATLY. kinda confused....
 
T

Ted87GT

Founding Member
Sep 21, 2001
58
0
6
Southern Maine
Jul 16, 2005
#2
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #2
a lot of people take the reinforcing plates off once they get subframe connectors. I just cut about an inch or so off of them and welded the plates to the side of my subframe connectors on the front, and took the back ones off. i have the connectors from maximum motorsports though, not steeda. the same principle probably applies though.
 

spyne

New Member
Dec 13, 2004
78
0
0
Fairfax, VA
Jul 17, 2005
#3
  • Jul 17, 2005
  • #3
The factory reinforcements are better than nothing, but only slightly. Unless you are building a show car to be an example of a bone stock fox body (very rare these days to be sure) your best bet is to lose the stock reinforcements and put on a set of welded in subframe connectors. The difference is amazing.
 
T

teamtruett

New Member
Jul 30, 2002
18
0
1
Hopewell NY
Jul 18, 2005
#4
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #4
OK so Im not compromising anything by leaving them off? Do I need the bars that bolt under the engine/k-member and the front factory plates?
 

tmoss

Gettin Wired
Founding Member
Jun 28, 2001
7,153
32
128
Saint Louis, MO
Jul 18, 2005
#5
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #5
teamtruett said:
Do I need the bars that bolt under the engine/k-member and the front factory plates?
Click to expand...

No, I pulled the rear set off mine and left them off - as well as drilling out the rivets and removing the plates. They are pretty flimsy anyway - mine where bent (several times it looks like) and straightened where they mash them flat - bad design. The welded subframes are all you need.
 

PuterAmI

Member
Mar 29, 2003
513
0
16
Madison, Alabama
Jul 18, 2005
#6
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #6
teamtruett said:
Do I need the bars that bolt under the engine/k-member and the front factory plates?
Click to expand...
Replace that with a Maximum Motorsports 4-point G-load brace. Made a world of difference for me.
 

tmoss

Gettin Wired
Founding Member
Jun 28, 2001
7,153
32
128
Saint Louis, MO
Jul 18, 2005
#7
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #7
I actuyally put the Kenny Brown chasis lit in mine which is the subframes, strut tower brace and g-load (or k-member brace) and it made the car fell solid as a coupe. No more cowl shake.
 

Jeff Cardwell

New Member
Aug 11, 2003
102
0
0
Harrison,TN
Jul 18, 2005
#8
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #8
Mine were trimmed to allow the reinforcements to stay and allow the subframes(Kenny Brown) to be welded.

Jeff
 
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