Fuseholder mounting for 3G swap

Mine is tucked away neatly on the back side (closer to the shock tower) of the battery. Cant even see it.

can you see it?


that reminds me, I need to hide that fan relay soon...

I ran my 4 ga. cable under the battery tray, and that's where I positioned the fuse holder. It'd be a ****** to change the fuse, but I figure that if it ever blows I have bigger problems to worry about than just swapping out a fuse.

I ran the wire in front of the radiator and under the battery tray with the fuse box sitting in the frame rail between the battery tray and the shock tower. Doesn't budge and you really can't see it.

I ran the 2ga (or 4ga) wire from the 3G around the oil pan (like the starter cable) and into the fuse holder which is screwed into the frame rail. I also passed the smaller "control" wires from the alternator to follow the larger cable...

my cable runs behind the rad and under the battery box and I have the fuse holder mounted underneath my cold air intake soo its easy to change

I bolted mine to the solenoid and then bolted the cable to the other end of the fuse. No problems so far...

Boss 351 said:

can you see it?

that reminds me, I need to hide that fan relay soon...

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that POS plastic fuse holder that you have between the relay is the reason my car caught on fire on the freeway, do yourself a favor and get a nice glass fuseholder, that plastic POS is gonna melt the first time it sees any type of excessive heat/current.

thanks for the warning... I have a 25amp fuse in there.. had it for 2 years (on the cougar before)... No problems as of yet, but I am paranoid about that stuff... hehe new fuse holder coming soon But my fan hardly ever runs with my aluminum rad anyway

Boss 351, is that fuse holder on the control side of the circuit? If so, it should be fine. On the load side, a slow burn fuse or a fusible link is the way to go if you should ever need to redo anything. You do want some sort of circuit protection on the load side, and yours is likely on the wire from the battery to the relay (terminal 30 or 87, depending upon how you wired your relay).

For the OP, there are some smaller fuse holders out there if space is a concern. I'd worry about the cable connections and zip ties only because of vibrations (metal fatigue). If you can get it decently rigid, it might work ok.

Good luck.

DucatiRdr said:

I ran the wire in front of the radiator and under the battery tray with the fuse box sitting in the frame rail between the battery tray and the shock tower. Doesn't budge and you really can't see it.

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x2

so 4g wire goes from alternator to solenoid but cut the 4g wire and put a fuse in between correct?

bobbyd said:

so 4g wire goes from alternator to solenoid but cut the 4g wire and put a fuse in between correct?

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Hopefully it's not that crude, but yes, a fused 4 AWG cable is what most folks use. If going with larger than a 130 amp alt, a larger cable is wise.

I mentioned the crude part because you want nice tight and clean solder joints of the cable to the lugs.

Good luck.

HISSIN50 said:

Hopefully it's not that crude, but yes, a fused 4 AWG cable is what most folks use. If going with larger than a 130 amp alt, a larger cable is wise.

I mentioned the crude part because you want nice tight and clean solder joints of the cable to the lugs.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

+1.

I like to use a small propane torch along with a little flux to clean the terminal before soldering the lug to the wire. I usually hold the lug in a vise or pliers and fill the lug with solder and then push the wire into it while it is still hot.
Works like a champ!

The 4 gauge wire for my 3G runs down the same path as the starter power wire. So I bolted the fuse holder to a piece of phenolic insulator board and bolted that to the ignition coil frame.