Gear Install - Backlash Question

[redsn95gt]

Normally on setting up backlash you shift shims from the left to right according if you need to add or remove backlash. However, on my 95, the so called "shims" are more like spacers made of steel, have a beveled edge on one side and are about 1/4" thick. I can't swap back and forth because they are the same exact thickness, and theres no other spacers or shims to really work with. My backlash is coming in a tiny bit big (.024"), i wanted to knock it down to around .013" - .014". Anyone run into this before?

Edit - i was getting .023-024 backlash before, not .014

Thanks

 

[RIO5.0]

The stock shims are normally all it takes on the carrier shims if your using FRPP gears.. Is .014 max?? I thought it was like .018??
My first set ran right at max like that and it was perfect...15k on it and never an issue. I been 3 swaps on different Mustangs with those same stock shims and been dead silent every time.

You can get pinion shims is differing thickness but the carrier is different. I think maybe directly from Ford they might be had??? I looked around but never really scored any.

 

[Venom351R]

^^^^^ Did my 4.10 gears, came out great!

 

[RIO5.0]

Ya dude...

 

[redsn95gt]

Ok figured this out- there was a shim set at the bottom of the box I didn't see. Ended up not using them because I also failed to notice the tiny difference in size on the stock shims. After checking with a mic, i could see I had put them in backwards. After reversing them, I was getting .014 backlash instead of .023 which is where I wanted to be.

The only other thing I am not certain about having this been my first gear install is the pre-load. I got the pinion nut tightened down (all by hand!) with brand new crush sleeve to have 23-24ft/lb with all new races and bearings on. Seems bizzare it would need to be this tight but I've read this all over the place that this is the norm. It takes so much effort to rotate the rear wheels by hand now! I feel like its not right or something

 

[94GTCoupe]

Foot pounds??

The pinion drag is measured in INCH POUNDS.

Can't remember the specs off hand,I'll check when I get home.

 

[redsn95gt]

Good grief!!! It is inch pounds! You're totally right. I knew something was terribly wrong! Great- now i have to go find a new crush sleeve. I guess I will convert 24 in/lb to ft/lb and see. I have a craftsman manual torque wrench with only nM and ft/lb

 

[revhead347]

divide by 12.

Kurt

 

[94GTCoupe]

Backlash is .008-.015
(Preferred is .012-.015)

Pinion bearing preload,
New bearing= 16-29 inch pounds
Used bearing=8-14 inch pounds.

I use a beam type inch pound torque wrench (like $15 on amazon),not a click type,for checking pinion preload.

 

[redsn95gt]

Thanks for the specs! Yea my craftsman one is the beam type, but it shows ft/lb, so dividing by 12 i knew i needed it to be right at the first line on the gauge (around 2-3 ft/lb), did not take much effort to get there. (Nothing like the force I had to use to get it to 24ft/lb lol!) I found some new dorman crush sleeves at carquest and got it all put back together again. So this time, everythings in spec, rotation feels normal now, and i feel pretty confident now.

Thanks!

 

[PickupMan]

Not to hi-jack your post but been wanting to put gears in my 94. I've been doing alot of research and have just a question or two that I hope anyone of you can answer. So if I purchase the FRPP gears and install the proper shim on the pinion that the new pinion calls for (Example. pinion has a 0 on it then a .030 shim), Install a new bearing and crush sleeve and torque it so I get it to have 16-29 inch pounds or running torque. Install ring gear and use the old shims and the specs should fall in place pretty dam close if not dead on? Of course I'll will check everything but it sounds like it's a pretty strtaight forward swap?

 

[94GTCoupe]

Not always.
I went from 3.27 to 3.73 FFRP gears.
Had to use different pinion,and carrier shims.

If you're going to do the swap yourself,be prepared and have all necessary tools/supplies on hand.
Also,I used the How to rebuild the 8.8 DVD from Bad Shoe Production.
Very good guide.

 

[RIO5.0]

On FRPP gears I always swap whatever pinion shim is on there over to the new pinion and so far it came into spec everytime as Ford runs a master dimension on gear sets.
I torque up the pinion nut...slowly... and once I like it I throw my indicator inside for "in/out" freeplay....freeplay means sneak up on it a tad more...If you have it TQ'd to spec, no freeplay, and she moves freely with just a light drag, then your there.

If you dont have mucho miles and the bearings and races look fine, no prior noise then leave them alone...don't replace whats not needed. Odds are it'll fall right back into spec.

Ring gear goes right on and TQ it up...carrier shims go back in the same place (make sure you mark which side and where the chamfer is) I use baggies and put bearings, caps & shims per side for re-assy.

Watch out for the small pinion shaft lock bolt...its 5/16 and you can strip the head if not careful..Ford used that badazz Orange loc-tite on it. I use a torch or heat when it gets to feeling funky.

The ABS relucters can be a mofo if they choose to and feel like not moving.

Replace your axle & pinion seals while your in there...cheap money.

As Davis said...you gotta feel comfortable and have the tools to do it...it's cake and youll be amazed how easy it it...long as you use FRPP gears that is.


Seen this write-up ???

8.8 Axle Gear Install

 

[PickupMan]

RIO5.0,
Thanks for the reply!! That's pretty much how I was going to go about it. Now I did happen to get an offer on a set of 3:73 from an explorer. So in regards to running those gears, I can pretty much replace the crush sleeve, new seals, reuse my end caps and spacers and Whamo no big deal. Just take all my measurements to make sure it's right. Sound pretty straight forward?

As far as tool that's not a problem and yeas I read that install a few times as well as one on another board. Once again THANK YOU!

 

[RIO5.0]

Exactly...your hardware and those gears. My first set I swapped was a used set of 355s and all came right into spec.

The worst part is crushing that bearing and creeping up on the preload. It takes a chitload of wrenching to get the bearing to start to crush...just do some and feel for freeplay...you'll see once you start. I crush some,give a spin, and repeat.

Your speedo will be off so grab a another gear to get it fairly close..Think I went with White...stock was yellow. Its not perfect but damn close.