Gear Install - Backlash Question

Backlash is .008-.015
(Preferred is .012-.015)

Pinion bearing preload,
New bearing= 16-29 inch pounds
Used bearing=8-14 inch pounds.

I use a beam type inch pound torque wrench (like $15 on amazon),not a click type,for checking pinion preload.

Not to hi-jack your post but been wanting to put gears in my 94. I've been doing alot of research and have just a question or two that I hope anyone of you can answer. So if I purchase the FRPP gears and install the proper shim on the pinion that the new pinion calls for (Example. pinion has a 0 on it then a .030 shim), Install a new bearing and crush sleeve and torque it so I get it to have 16-29 inch pounds or running torque. Install ring gear and use the old shims and the specs should fall in place pretty dam close if not dead on? Of course I'll will check everything but it sounds like it's a pretty strtaight forward swap?

Not always.
I went from 3.27 to 3.73 FFRP gears.
Had to use different pinion,and carrier shims.

If you're going to do the swap yourself,be prepared and have all necessary tools/supplies on hand.
Also,I used the How to rebuild the 8.8 DVD from Bad Shoe Production.
Very good guide.

On FRPP gears I always swap whatever pinion shim is on there over to the new pinion and so far it came into spec everytime as Ford runs a master dimension on gear sets.
I torque up the pinion nut...slowly... and once I like it I throw my indicator inside for "in/out" freeplay....freeplay means sneak up on it a tad more...If you have it TQ'd to spec, no freeplay, and she moves freely with just a light drag, then your there.

If you dont have mucho miles and the bearings and races look fine, no prior noise then leave them alone...don't replace whats not needed. Odds are it'll fall right back into spec.

Ring gear goes right on and TQ it up...carrier shims go back in the same place (make sure you mark which side and where the chamfer is) I use baggies and put bearings, caps & shims per side for re-assy.

Watch out for the small pinion shaft lock bolt...its 5/16 and you can strip the head if not careful..Ford used that badazz Orange loc-tite on it. I use a torch or heat when it gets to feeling funky.

The ABS relucters can be a mofo if they choose to and feel like not moving.

Replace your axle & pinion seals while your in there...cheap money.

As Davis said...you gotta feel comfortable and have the tools to do it...it's cake and youll be amazed how easy it it...long as you use FRPP gears that is.


Seen this write-up ???

8.8 Axle Gear Install

RIO5.0,
Thanks for the reply!! That's pretty much how I was going to go about it. Now I did happen to get an offer on a set of 3:73 from an explorer. So in regards to running those gears, I can pretty much replace the crush sleeve, new seals, reuse my end caps and spacers and Whamo no big deal. Just take all my measurements to make sure it's right. Sound pretty straight forward?

As far as tool that's not a problem and yeas I read that install a few times as well as one on another board. Once again THANK YOU!

Exactly...your hardware and those gears. My first set I swapped was a used set of 355s and all came right into spec.

The worst part is crushing that bearing and creeping up on the preload. It takes a chitload of wrenching to get the bearing to start to crush...just do some and feel for freeplay...you'll see once you start. I crush some,give a spin, and repeat.

Your speedo will be off so grab a another gear to get it fairly close..Think I went with White...stock was yellow. Its not perfect but damn close.