getting code 44 en 94

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82 and 44 & 94

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See www.Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Passives/Wirewound/OHMITE/43F82RE/displayProduct.jsp?sku=64K8974
If the link fails do a search using the park number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.


18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.

This isn't a guaranteed fix, but it is cheap enough (less than $10) that you can experiment with it.

this shouldn't effect performance at all

jrichker said:

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82 and 44 & 94

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See www.Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Passives/Wirewound/OHMITE/43F82RE/displayProduct.jsp?sku=64K8974
If the link fails do a search using the park number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.

18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.

This isn't a guaranteed fix, but it is cheap enough (less than $10) that you can experiment with it.

Click to expand...

Jrichker - i have attached Pictures of some sensors i elimated. After unplugging them im throwing a check engine light.. Are these the sensors your above post is talking about eliminating with resistors????





my car is running like crap and i think that by me unplugging these without doing something to bypass it is causing some of the problem.

Dump the codes to get the exact item causing the CEL to turn on.

The first item is the Electronic Vacuum Regulator for the EGR system. The TAB & TAD fix will not do anything for it.
Some basic theory to clarify how things work is in order…

The EGR shuts off at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), so it has minimal effect on performance. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping. It can also reduce HC emissions by reducing fuel consumption. The primary result of EGR usage is a reduction in NOx emissions.

The EGR system has a vacuum source (line from the intake manifold) that goes to the EVR, computer operated electronic vacuum regulator. The EVR is located on the back of the passenger side shock strut tower. The computer uses RPM, Load. and some other factors to tell the EVR to pass vacuum to open the EGR valve. The EGR valve and the passages in the heads and intake manifold route exhaust gas to the EGR spacer (throttle body spacer). The EGR sensor tells the computer how far the EGR valve is open. Then computer adjusts the signal sent to the EVR to hold, increase or decrease the vacuum. The computer adds spark advance to compensate for the recirculated gases and the slower rate they burn at.

There should be no vacuum at the EGR valve when at idle. If there is, the EVR (electronic vacuum regulator) mounted on the backside of the passenger side wheelwell is suspect. Check the vacuum line plumbing to make sure the previous owner didn’t cross the vacuum lines.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds. (the diagram says 88 GT, but the EGR part is the same for 86-93 Mustangs)


The EGR sensor is basically a variable resistor, like the volume control on a radio. One end is 5 volt VREF power from the computer (red/orange wire). One end is computer signal ground (black/white), and the middle wire (brown/lt green) is the signal output from the EGR sensor. It is designed to always have some small voltage output from it anytime the ignition switch is the Run position. That way the computer knows the sensor & the wiring is OK. No voltage on computer pin 27 (brown/lt green wire) and the computer thinks the sensor is bad or the wire is broken and sets code 31. The voltage output can range from approximately .6-.85 volt.


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 5in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 2-5 in vacuum


The second items are the TAB & TAD solenoids. The TAB & TAD fix may work to fix the codes for them.
The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve (bypass or TAB) either dumps air output overboard at WOT or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve (diverter valve or TAD) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The check valves in the output tubes keeps hot exhaust from damaging the pump & control valves.

See code 44 & 94 causes and tests
Codes 94 & 44 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection. Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

If you took those tab and tad solenoids.. make sure you at least plug up those vacuum lines... but you will still get error codes...

well what i did was disconnect completely the sensors i have pictured above. Since they had no vaccume lines hooked up to them i figured what the hey unhook em! well my car is throwing a check engine light which im assuming is coming from there. I havent pulled the codes in a couple of weeks. Im going to pull them and see what they say. I do know tho that my EGR is not functioning. I dont have a smog pump or any of that, and no vac lines going to the EGR so i know it will throw that code.. What else effects idle and driveability? could idle inconsistancy be caused by a not adjusted TPS? my IAC and ACT sensors have been replaced.. Im still having issues with cold start surge (never did that until i started messing with the TPS) and like bucking while at crusing speeds.. (40 mph and 2k rpm) wierd i know. im thinking a combination TPS and maybe timing? i have an f-cam for refrence.

Can't i pick up that resistor at a local radio shack? and as far as hooking them up, would i just basically jump some wires on the plug?

1990Coupe said:

Can't i pick up that resistor at a local radio shack? and as far as hooking them up, would i just basically jump some wires on the plug?

Click to expand...

Radio Shack will not have the resistor with the 3 watt rating. If you use a lower wattage resistor, it will burn up. The splices shown allow you to crimp the resistor on the wires used for the solenoid.

Thanks jrichker!! i ordered the resistors so hopefully i splice them right! do you think that having the EGR like not functioning, and these sensors bypassed, it would be causing me to have horrible gas mileage?? like 12-14 mpg being easy and NOT beating on it what-so-ever?

The EGR will affect gas mileage some, exactly how much I don't know. Did you dump the codes? What where they? Did you get a code for O2 sensors ?

Check your vacuum .... with a vacuum guage... what are you getting?? Also unplug your inlet vacuum line to the egr.... and hook up the vacuum gauge... then run the engine off diagnostic... see if the vacuum moves up... if it does than you should be fine... but if your getting a egr error code then your egr valve is bad... I would guess you have a vacuum leak... but otherwise it def. could be your tps... did you clean your idle air control motor??? unplug the iac and try adjusting the idle screw to bring idle down to say 800-900 with your cam... then plug the iac back in and heat up the car... after the car is heated up turn it off.. but with the ignition on adjust your tps to get between .6 and .9, I had make the two tps holes bigger and I used a couple washers on the screw.. that allowed me to get the proper voltage to the tps. if you kinda twist it. firewall towards you then screw that down.. but loose then kinda twist the tps at the front of the car towards the driver side and the voltage should go up... but that was just in my case... and it worked... but who knows... after doing those things.... then re-adjust your timing. Take her for a spin and hope for the best!!!

jrichker said:

The EGR will affect gas mileage some, exactly how much I don't know. Did you dump the codes? What where they? Did you get a code for O2 sensors ?

Click to expand...

no im going to do that as soon as i get home tonight.. ill let you know what im getting

AnthonyR23 said:

Check your vacuum .... with a vacuum guage... what are you getting?? Also unplug your inlet vacuum line to the egr.... and hook up the vacuum gauge... then run the engine off diagnostic... see if the vacuum moves up... if it does than you should be fine... but if your getting a egr error code then your egr valve is bad... I would guess you have a vacuum leak... but otherwise it def. could be your tps... did you clean your idle air control motor??? unplug the iac and try adjusting the idle screw to bring idle down to say 800-900 with your cam... then plug the iac back in and heat up the car... after the car is heated up turn it off.. but with the ignition on adjust your tps to get between .6 and .9, I had make the two tps holes bigger and I used a couple washers on the screw.. that allowed me to get the proper voltage to the tps. if you kinda twist it. firewall towards you then screw that down.. but loose then kinda twist the tps at the front of the car towards the driver side and the voltage should go up... but that was just in my case... and it worked... but who knows... after doing those things.... then re-adjust your timing. Take her for a spin and hope for the best!!!

Click to expand...

My EGR isn't working. I have no vac line coming out of it anymore. its still plugged in electrically but as far as anythign else, everyting is dissconnected... I replaced the IAC with a new one along with an ACT.. after i dump and pull codes im going to try and set the TPS.. once thats set im going to unplug the IAC, bump up the idle, plug the IAC back in, and check the timing..

another thing I would do is get a vacuum tee and run a line to the egr valve vacuum solenoid where the vacuum line is suppost to go.. or you know on the driver side firewall where the vacuum distribution block is.. there should be one port with a cap on it.. you could run a new vacuum line from there too the egr valve solenoid.... u know the one with the cap on the top... I am pretty sure the supply line goes to the bottom and the top goes to the valve.. you could check it by hooking it up to vacuum then getting a vacuum line to the top of the solenoid then with a vacuum gauge run the test and make sure the thing is working.. should go from 0 vacuum upwards... during the test.. if so it should be hooked up right.. then hook it up to the egr valve... take it for a spin.. and redo the test.. hopefully that fixes it..

ok.. You guys ready for this one????

KOEO

23,34,67,81,82,85,84.

KOER

No codes pulled. it didnt even blink.. WTF??? i got nada?


Also... i raised up my idle a little bit, still had the surge and crappy drivability - cant set the TPS correctly i need to pick up a volt meter so i can test that and the O2's.. BUT get this, if i UNCAP the open port on the Vac tree, she stops surging.. like right away... and she runs FINE??? thats not susposed to happen? im essentially creating a vac leak and it smooths out? i dont get it..

until you fix the engine off codes.. don't even bother with the engine on codes... You definetely should drill the holes larger on your tps and use some washers.. until you fix that you will keep getting code 23.... ignore code 67 that will go away if you have someone sit in the car with their foot on the clutch... the error's in the 80's will likely go away if you fix up that egr problem... did you test the vacuum lines... do you have a testing guage.. I just had a bunch of similiar problems... I ordered a vacuum hose kit (yellow) from mustangs unlimited.. and reran a ton of the lines.. can help ya with that if you decide to go that route.. unless you are already getting good vacuum... do you have a vacuum gauge... cause if you hook it up to where the egr solenoid goes to the egr valve.. or where it is supposed to when you run the test you should see the vacuum go up... my vacuum is at about 22... if it doesn't than your egr valve is probably fine... could just be the solenoid.. if it does go up... then your egr valve is probably toast.. or you could just have a really bad vacuum leak...

u definetely need a volt meter.. and a vacuum gauge... otherwise you won't be able to fix those codes!!!

AnthonyR23 said:

u definetely need a volt meter.. and a vacuum gauge... otherwise you won't be able to fix those codes!!!

Click to expand...

Yea i went to my local part store to find a vac gauge but he didnt sell one, im still on the lookout for one local rather then ordering off the internet. same with the volt meter, im going to pick one up. As far as the EGR, i wont work without the vac lines, and i have nothing emissions on my car thats why it is unplugged. Can't i just make some kind of "jump" for it like the tab/tad sensors?

EDIT: thanks anthony and everyone for all your help! i really apprecieate it!!