Getting Hot!

topdri · Mar 16, 2006

Ever since I had the engine work done on my car - it runs awfully hot.

In Sept 2004:
Trickflow top end
347 stroker bottom end
5lb supercharger with an anderson pipe
x-pipe
tremec tko-600 tranny
373 rear
etc

it runs hot!

As for the cooling:
it has a 3 row steel radiator - few years old
160 degree thermo - fairly new
standard water pump - fairly new
new fan clutch and fan

Ever since I had the engine work done it gets HOT - it runs in Normal but towards the high part of Normal. I have been told lots to try but I want to be sure before putting more money into the car. This past week - it appears that the lower hose has sprung a leak. I will check it out this weekend on the ramps but may not do anything about it right now. It has been running hot since the install. Any ideas on what may be causing this given my configuration above. With the S/C, do you think a high volume water pump is the answer? What about water wetter by red-line? 180+ thermostat? Could the 160 be bad? I replaced the 180/195 with the 160 a while back thinking what the heck - no good. Anyway, looking for something other than replacing the radiator with one from Be Cool (ie aluminum).

TTYL ... Todd

HISSIN50 · Mar 16, 2006

At least for diagnostics, get a real temp gauge (preferrably mechanical). Otherwise it's guess work to know exactly how hot you are running.

Good luck Todd.

1SLO306 · Mar 16, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
At least for diagnostics, get a real temp gauge (preferrably mechanical). Otherwise it's guess work to know exactly how hot you are running.

Good luck Todd.

i was going to say exaclty the same. the stocker are that great. the gauges are usally one of the first upgrades on these cars.

topdri · Mar 16, 2006

Yea - I know. Money and time guys. I spent enough time and money in this car/ I am the original owner of it and am having a tough time letting go of how stock the car is inside other than the fire extinguisher. What you are saying is that it "may" not be running that hot. Maybe the lower hose is simply ready to be replaced? Thanks for your inputs!

topdri · Mar 16, 2006

What will the mechanical show me that the idiot / stock gauges won't? You have peeked my curiosity. Thx

HISSIN50 · Mar 16, 2006

A 10 dollar parts store mech gauge is leagues better than the stocker. The stock gauges are not calibrated worth a hoot, and they are hysteretic by design.

The stock gauge tells nothing and it can be misleading. Ours all work differently - my stocker reads 35* too cool.

All I can post is what I would do, and one simply needs a proper and accurate means of discerning the actual temperature in order to perform troubleshooting.

My humble two cents.

Good luck Todd.

vristang · Mar 16, 2006

topdri said:
As for the cooling:
it has a 3 row steel radiator - few years old
... Todd

I have never heard of a steel radiator.
I am curious, I thought the stock was brass/copper?
If it really is steel that may be the problem?

Something is wrong with your system if you are running that hot with a 160 stat. But as the other guys have mentioned a stat gauge is a good idea, because you may not be that hot. Even if you just buy a cheap one and mount it in the engine bay.

jason

topdri · Mar 16, 2006

humble is good To start - I will get the car going again. While I am at the store, I will look into a mech gauge. Thx

topdri · Mar 16, 2006

I call it steel when it may be copper. It has one extra row than the stock and looks identical to it with the exception of the extra row. No sweat. As I just said, I will check into a gauge while I am at the store getting a lower hose and fluid. A 160 should work just fine with my setup. I think it is just a matter of getting the true temp. Thx much!

1SLO306 · Mar 17, 2006

good luck with it all. let us know what the mech gauge reads

302RollinHard · Mar 17, 2006

if you know you are running hot after mechanical gauge, parts stores sell "engine cool" stuff an antifreeze additive that allows your antifreeze to dissapate heat better, and it does actually work, tried it in my work truck and did fine with it. It comes in a metal container and costs ~$30. Better than replacing water pump and or radiator.

TENGRAM · Mar 18, 2006

i've seen 4 of these questions just today on various forums. all the same problem. its your T-stat. 160 is way too cool. if engine is hotter than 160(it always is) the 160 T-stat will not close. coolant MUST have time to cool down in the radiator, if the T-stat is open the coolant is flowing and doesnt cool down in the radiator. switch to a 180 or stock 192 T-stat. this WILL fix your prob.

HISSIN50 · Mar 18, 2006

TENGRAM said:
i've seen 4 of these questions just today on various forums. all the same problem. its your T-stat. 160 is way too cool. if engine is hotter than 160(it always is) the 160 T-stat will not close. coolant MUST have time to cool down in the radiator, if the T-stat is open the coolant is flowing and doesnt cool down in the radiator. switch to a 180 or stock 192 T-stat. this WILL fix your prob.

These are bold words. There is another school of thought which very-much disagrees with you. I would suggest more research before posting an end-all fix for someone.

Sevan · Mar 18, 2006

try an electric water pump and dual fans to cool the beast down

good luck

TENGRAM · Mar 18, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
These are bold words. There is another school of thought which very-much disagrees with you. I would suggest more research before posting an end-all fix for someone.

ok i might have been over the top w/ the "WILL fix your prob" stuff but really, a $6 part quite probably is the answer. if not its $6.

HISSIN50 · Mar 18, 2006

TenGram, did you notice he already had a hotter stat in there?

Actually the bulk of my point was about the restriction argument. Much of that is internet myth.

86bluecobra · Mar 18, 2006

the more hp you through at a motor the more heat it will make. i agree with the buying a mechanical gauge bit but you have to understand that a close to stock cooling system will not be able to cool a engine that makes more heat then it was designed for. time to upgrade the cooling system to make it adiquate for your new hp additions.

TENGRAM · Mar 18, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
TenGram, did you notice he already had a hotter stat in there?

Actually the bulk of my point was about the restriction argument. Much of that is internet myth.

must be internet and book myth because i've read it on paper. i'm no expert but i do live in Texas. remove your stat, you overheat. 160 is the same thing. it stays open. unless you have a great radiator and lots of airflow the coolant won't cool.

HISSIN50 · Mar 18, 2006

TENGRAM said:
must be internet and book myth because i've read it on paper. i'm no expert but i do live in Texas. remove your stat, you overheat. 160 is the same thing. it stays open. unless you have a great radiator and lots of airflow the coolant won't cool.

I'm also no stranger to heat, living in AZ.

Here is a sampling of some info in regards to the restrictor misinformation.

I also recommend spending a couple more bucks and getting a performance stat. It noticably helped in my situation in 115* heat. I use a Mr Gasket 180 (fully balanced, which is nice if you tach it up a bit, opens fully sooner, etc).

TENGRAM · Mar 18, 2006

the information you provided was in reference to a restrictor. a T-stat is not a restrictor. it might be very slightly restrictive by design, but when temps are above the recommended operating temperature it opens, thus providing unrestricted flow, before this point it is important for it to stay closed for the aforementioned reason.

"For applications requiring a thermostat to keep the engine at operating temperature, we recommend using a Stewart/Robertshaw high flow thermostat"

one of the applications they are refering to is our beloved 5.0.

i wouldn't feel right telling him to spend several hundred dollars on electric pumps and fans, without recommending a more likely and cheaper solution. next i would recommend a nice radiator(3-rows, more fins-per-sq-inch). fans would further aid cooling, but the water pump, unless it is faulty, would be the last thing replaced. like having no t-stat or too low temperature T-stat this will force water through too quickly.

all you could come up w/ was some advertisement to prove me wrong? i could go find dozens different sites that support my argument, and many of them arent selling anything.

besides, i think the idea here is to help this guy, not argue w/ each other.

Getting Hot!

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