Good deal????

B

baker2956

New Member

Mar 4, 2004

48

0

0

NY

Mar 23, 2004

#1

• Mar 23, 2004

• #1

Hey guys. I just bought this 302 block off of ebay and it comes w/ the crank, pistons, cam, timing chain. Check it out, I got it for the buy it now price. Let me know if I did the right thing or if I just was too spontaneous and got ripped off. Thanks guys.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&category=33615&sspagename=STRK:MEBWN:IT&rd=1

 

68_stanger

New Member

Nov 21, 2003

131

0

0

Petoskey, MI

Mar 23, 2004

#2

• Mar 23, 2004

• #2

lol "decided he'd rather smoke dope and act stupid" oh thats funny, I'd say it looks like a good deal assuming that it was put together right, I would assume it is because no one builds a engine to fail.

 

B

baker2956

New Member

Mar 4, 2004

48

0

0

NY

Mar 23, 2004

#3

• Mar 23, 2004

• #3

I know the bore is at the limit will this be a problem or what could happen?

 

68_stanger

New Member

Nov 21, 2003

131

0

0

Petoskey, MI

Mar 23, 2004

#4

• Mar 23, 2004

• #4

With the bore being .060 isn't a big deal until it comes time to rebuild again. As I don't think it can be bored again (correct me if im wrong) It could be resleeved however at that point you'd be better off finding a different block. But again it should be fine for a long time.

 

3

3spd on floor

Founding Member

Aug 13, 2002

1,099

0

0

Acworth, GA

Mar 23, 2004

#5

• Mar 23, 2004

• #5

the overbore might cause it to run a bit on the warm side, just keep a close eye on it. and at that price, you might want to consider pulling the main caps and plastigauging the bearings, or even pulling it completely apart and checking to make sure the rod/piston assemblys all weigh about the same. just to make sure its not going to fly apart as soon as you start it up. it sucks to spend a ton of time working on something only to find out you got sold a piece of crap that doesnt work....ask me how i know.

 

B

baker2956

New Member

Mar 4, 2004

48

0

0

NY

Mar 23, 2004

#6

• Mar 23, 2004

• #6

how do u know....lol Here's the other thing. I want to drop in a 331 stroker kit...any problems there? I figured I would sell the cam, crank, pistons, bearings, and rings

 

hungrymonkey

White by Birth, Trash By Choice

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,077

12

108

Oregon.

Mar 24, 2004

#7

• Mar 24, 2004

• #7

I cant get the link to work, but from what it sounds like. the motor is assembled and possibly used?

so selling the internals in used condition might net you about $20.

the pistons might be the only thing worth money. depending on what they are, and how used.

 

B

baker2956

New Member

Mar 4, 2004

48

0

0

NY

Mar 24, 2004

#8

• Mar 24, 2004

• #8

Here's what the description said about the motor...

74' Ford 302/5.0 short block. Bored & honed .060 over, new cast pistons, block decked, rods reconditioned with chrome-moly rod bolts, new rings and bearings. New Crane Blue Racer camshaft with .512 lift, 284 adv. duration, 228 duration @ .050. Short block built for 16 year olds first hotrod, decided he'd rather smoke dope and act stupid. His dad scraped the project. Delivery possible, e-mail for details. Short block does come with new timing chain and gears installed and cam degreed

Most of the stuff is new. My buddy is trying to convince me to keep everything as is, instead of dropping in a 331 stroker kit, and to just make sure everything is put in right. What kind of power do you guys think it will have w/ the following bolted on:

-Weiand Stealth Intake
-Edelbrock 600cfm Carb w/ electric choke (although my buddy is telling me to get a 750cfm carb)
-Edelbrock Performer Fuel Pump
-MSD Ignition
-Hedmen long tube headders
-2.5" H-pipe
-Flowmasters

I will eventually change the gears to 3:55 and add the torque converter w/ 2400 stall

I might change the cam to something w/ a wider RPM range. The one that is coming is from 2000-5500 RPM but I was looking at a Comp Cam w/ similar lift and duration w/ an RPM range from 1600-6800. The car will be a daily driver and Im looking to get good torque and like 320-375 HP

 

hungrymonkey

White by Birth, Trash By Choice

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,077

12

108

Oregon.

Mar 24, 2004

#9

• Mar 24, 2004

• #9

that would be about half of what it would cost you to build the same set up.

but without knowing how its been put together.

 

3

3spd on floor

Founding Member

Aug 13, 2002

1,099

0

0

Acworth, GA

Mar 24, 2004

#10

• Mar 24, 2004

• #10

i wouldnt recommend a 331 kit for a block thats .060 over. (yes i know some people run 3.4" strokes on .060 over blocks) plus, you wont get much for a stock 302 crank, reworked rods and some cast pistons.

as for the power you want to make....the heads you choose will largely affect that. what heads were you planning to use? have you ever driven a car thats got 375hp and weighs less than 3000 pounds? 275-300 can make for a very exciting ride in these cars, dont get too caught up in chasing a big number.

again, for that price it would be stupid not to go through it and make sure its been assembled right. just gauge the bearings, mass the rod/piston assemblys, and if everything checks out...slap her together and go drive it.

 

B

baker2956

New Member

Mar 4, 2004

48

0

0

NY

Mar 25, 2004

#11

• Mar 25, 2004

• #11

Yeah think Im going w/ the set up but Im probably taking it apart and putting it back together just in case. Im going to either put on the afr-165's or afr-185's. My last mustang was around 340HP. It was an 87 GT I worked up.

 

1320stang

Founding Member

Nov 13, 1998

4,329

23

89

Edmond, Oklahoma

Mar 25, 2004

#12

• Mar 25, 2004

• #12

If you're taking it apart, take the block to a machine shop and have it sonic checked since it's .060 over. This will give you the wall thickness in the cylinders, they should check 12 spots in each cylinder, near the top at 3,6,9 & 12 o'clock, in the middle and near the bottom. I'm not sure what good numbers for a 302 block are, for an FE they're about .110 minimum for a street only motor and .125 for a street strip motor, although I plan on going full race with a .125 motor that will be grouted up to the water pump holes. I still have to have the block sonic checked though. It's a 390 block (4.05 bore that's .060 over at 4.11 now) that I think will goto a 428 bore (4.13, that would be an .080 over 390 block) although I might take it to a SBC 400 stock bore (4.125) if I can find some decent high compression pistons for it, plan on using Edelbrock heads.

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

Founding Member

Apr 8, 2001

2,458

1

56

North Atlanta

Mar 25, 2004

#13

• Mar 25, 2004

• #13

you bought a complete shortblock that you are selling everything out of, only to have it reassembled with your 331 stroker kit?

Why did you just buy a late model bare roller block to begin with?

Heck, I have one that is powdercoated that i would have sold you for a lot less than $400 and it has a standard bore.

 

hungrymonkey

White by Birth, Trash By Choice

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,077

12

108

Oregon.

Mar 25, 2004

#14

• Mar 25, 2004

• #14

standard bore 5.0 blocks were selling at summit for like 200 bucks last year.

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

Founding Member

Apr 8, 2001

2,458

1

56

North Atlanta

Mar 25, 2004

#15

• Mar 25, 2004

• #15

hungrymonkey said:

standard bore 5.0 blocks were selling at summit for like 200 bucks last year.

Click to expand...

Im not sure if I see your point.


He is going to be using a .060 overbore 74 non roller block, that he wants to stroke. Paid $400 for it....be lucky to get $100 back from the rotating assembly. What whats left is the used, bored, block. When, a used 5.0L roller block can be had for under $100...standard bore.

Im not flaming. Personally, Id try to sell the shortblock for more than what you paid, and get a different block.

 

hungrymonkey

White by Birth, Trash By Choice

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,077

12

108

Oregon.

Mar 25, 2004

#16

• Mar 25, 2004

• #16

my point was that if he wanted to stroke it, then why not buy a factory non used roller block for 200 bucks and not have to worry about bore or cracks.

I havent found a used roller motor for less than $400 in my area. most junkyards are asking $600.

guess its just where I live.

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

Founding Member

Apr 8, 2001

2,458

1

56

North Atlanta

Mar 25, 2004

#17

• Mar 25, 2004

• #17

Gotcha

I guess things are cheap where i live. In our club we do a lot of part swapping. Right now I have an offer for....a DSS 306 with ported E7heads, victor jr intake, all accessories, nitrous kit, and a World Class T5 all with less than 4000 miles on them for a hair under $1500! And, yes everything is in eprfect working condition!

 

B

baker2956

New Member

Mar 4, 2004

48

0

0

NY

Mar 25, 2004

#18

• Mar 25, 2004

• #18

Ive been having a hard time finding a block. Hence the reason I got this one that was bored out so much. I guess I just dont know where to look. Everythign I saw was like $400-$500 for a bare 302. HELP!!!

 

B

baker2956

New Member

Mar 4, 2004

48

0

0

NY

Mar 25, 2004

#19

• Mar 25, 2004

• #19

Oh and Im not selling everything out of the block now...but I am thinking of getting another block...anyone know where to go....I hate rookie mistakes

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

11,730

6

0

south louisiana

Mar 25, 2004

#20

• Mar 25, 2004

• #20

hungrymonkey said:

my point was that if he wanted to stroke it, then why not buy a factory non used roller block for 200 bucks and not have to worry about bore or cracks.

I havent found a used roller motor for less than $400 in my area. most junkyards are asking $600.

guess its just where I live.

Click to expand...

You need to move down here Monkey----- I just bought a low mileage 88 Lincoln mark VII, 302 H.O. equipped, 8.8 rear w/discs, running but wrecked, for $500. Bought a std bore roller 5.0 block, crank, and rods w/new std cast flattops for $100