just walked outside to start my car and run to the store, turn the key on and hear the fuel pump come on and all the lights in the dash, but car wont even try to turn over? no clicking or anything from the battery, checked it and it was good? could it be the starter has quit on me?
just went back out there about 5 minutes ago and the car started up fine, i replaced the solenoid, power and ground wires about 3 weeks ago and it has acted fine since then until tonight?
still no idea of what caused this, starter is turning over like a champ again, just need 2 find the possible problem and get it fixed, because i dont like my stang being down and out
aight the car is doing it again, still same thing, can turn the key and nothing. i took a jumper wire to the solenoid and the car will turn over perfect? whats the next thing i should test to fix this?
i had a 95 explorer where the little brushes in the starter burned themselves out, but only in certain positions... so when the car wouldn't start, I would try for a while, sometimes it would work, other times i'd wait 5-10 minutes and it'd start right up.
i have been messing with it all day today and it wont start unless you jump the solenoid, have checked the stuff on jrichkers no start check sheet, the starter will turn, but only if it is jumped at the solenoid
How are you jumping the solenoid? If jumping the trigger post to the battery lug (tiny lug to the battery lug), then the solenoid is ok.
If you're jumping the two big lugs, you've only tested the starter and starter cable basically.
Put a test light on the starter interlock post (the small post at the top of the solenoid) and crank the engine. The test light should illuminate. I bet yours doesn't. If it doesn't, you know the issue is before the solenoid, namely the clutch safety switch, ignition switch or interlock wiring. The CSS is the place to go next (checking in/out voltage).
yeah i could jump the solenoid both ways and it would work, so now that it has stopped raining im gonna check the CSS, which wires do i need 2 connect to bypass it to see if that is my problem?
For diagnostics, a blade fuse happens to fit real nicely into the terminals of the electrical connector. Again, just be sure the car is in neutral and the e-brake is on.
plugged a fuse into both connectors, still nothing, tested both with a test light and neither has power, so i took the plastic off around the column and tested the white/pink wire on the ignition switch. it has power when the key is turned
Did you test the power into the CSS with the key turned to the cranking position?
If you have power at the white/pink wire egressing the ignition switch but no cranking power going into the CSS, you have an open in the wiring inbetween. Try wiggling the wiring as you go because it was an intermittant issue for you before.