got the engine apart....

A

alludethis

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Sep 26, 2006

#1

• Sep 26, 2006

• #1

And wouldnt you know it, it looks like the damn thing was rebuilt!!! Pistons and rods still look almost new, no metal shavings in my oil pan. The Pistons are still silver, is this usual, or does that mean they are new? I took it apart expecting it all to look like crap but it looks really good. Im almost thinking the previous owner had the engine rebuilt by a shop, but then put the gaskets and stuff on himself? The car was running strong before i took it apart. It was just smoking alot. Does the car come stock with the dual chain timing chain, or a single, because mine has a dual one on it.

 

C

carlp

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Jun 26, 2005

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#2

• Sep 26, 2006

• #2

The pistons will be silver except for some carbon on the top of them. The car shoud have come with a double row timing chain from the beginning. I have recently taken apart 2 junkyard 5.0s that look great. They were not rebuilt. Key things to look at on your engine are rteh condition of the bearings and the cylinder walls. If the walls are perfect with no scuffs and the bearings are still grey without any hint of copper, your engine may have been rebuilt failry recently. Good luck with your rebuild.

 

A

alludethis

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#3

• Sep 26, 2006

• #3

when taking the connecting rod apart, after i take the 2 nuts off, do i tap the bolts out so i can get a good look at the bearings?

 

bobbys9350

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Mar 30, 2005

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#4

• Sep 26, 2006

• #4

no they are pressed. just pull the rod cap off

 

R

R2D2

Sep 26, 2006

#5

• Sep 26, 2006

• #5

the bolts are pressed in the rods, you take the cap off. Tap either one of the bolts with a rubber mallet, lightly one time should jar the cap loose. Take the cap off and it will have half of the beaing in it.

 

A

alludethis

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#6

• Sep 26, 2006

• #6

ok awesome

 

A

alludethis

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#7

• Sep 26, 2006

• #7

took the rod apart pulled this piston out, which was a mistake, but anyway, looked at the bearing and there is copper showing. Does this mean they need to be replaced?? The cylinder walls look good and the pistons look alright. I guess i need a special tool to put the piston back in since i cant hold the rings by hand.

 

R

R2D2

Sep 26, 2006

#8

• Sep 26, 2006

• #8

copper means its time to rebuild or do whatever you want. As for the rings, ya you need a ring compressor. 30 bucks at sears

 

A

alludethis

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#9

• Sep 26, 2006

• #9

ok, what should i torque the connecting rod nuts to?

 

R

R2D2

Sep 26, 2006

#10

• Sep 26, 2006

• #10

with engine oil 45ft-lbs

 

A

alludethis

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Sep 26, 2006

#11

• Sep 26, 2006

• #11

what do you mean with engine oil?? Use engine oil to lube it? Also, the bearings do i just push them into the connecting rod or do i have to use a tool? When i took the old one out and then tried to put it back in, it falls back out when i tried to push the piston back in

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

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Sep 26, 2006

#12

• Sep 26, 2006

• #12

You bunch of noobs....nothing like a whole thread full of rookies.



LOL just kidding guys....seriously though, the smoking could have been worn valve guides in the engine letting oil into the cylinders...or a number of other things. Smoking isn't always worn rings. If you run too thin of engine oil your engine can smoke....also if your car hasn't had the oil changed in a LONG time, it'll smoke some.

 

A

alludethis

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#13

• Sep 26, 2006

• #13

ok where are the valve guides? And the bearings do i just push them back in or do i have to i use a tool?

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

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#14

• Sep 26, 2006

• #14

alludethis said:

ok where are the valve guides? And the bearings do i just push them back in or do i have to i use a tool?

Click to expand...

Valve guides are literally the guides/holes that the valves slide through in the heads. When they wear out, oil seeps through and gets into the cylinders. I'm not saying that's for sure what your problem is, but it can be an issue on high mileage engines...i know it is on mine.

 

A

alludethis

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#15

• Sep 26, 2006

• #15

ok so all i have to do is take them out and look at/replace the seals. As far as the bearings go, can i just push them in by hand or do i have to have a tool to press them in, i know that i can get them in by hand, but they dont seem to want to stay.

 

T

TheUser

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Jul 25, 2003

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Sep 26, 2006

#16

• Sep 26, 2006

• #16

you press the bearings in by hand - no special tools necessary. There should be a "key" that is indented into the rod and the rod cap - the bearings are made to fit one way and there should be a protrusion that fits into that "key" indention. Press it in by hand to where the edges of the bearing sit flush with the rod at the edges and the rod cap as well. If it came out, it will go back in - just make sure you get the "key's" lined up - which assures it goes the correct way (I can't remember if you could possibly mess that up or not).

Good luck.

 

A

alludethis

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Sep 27, 2006

#17

• Sep 27, 2006

• #17

thanks guys, pretty sure i got everything covered now.

 

B

Boss 351

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Jul 13, 2003

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Sep 27, 2006

#18

• Sep 27, 2006

• #18

Just one little comment, if you aren't sure what a valve guide is, don't rebuild the engine by yourself, get someone to help you in person, it will save you some cash, time, and help you get some experience for the next rebuild. There are a lot of things that need to be PERFECT for an engine to last longer than a couple of weeks.