I didn't quite understand what you are trying to do. Do you wish to add another oil pressure sender to the current sender plumbing or your trying to do something else?
All you need is a 1/4" pipe tee and maybe a short 1/4" pipe nipple to move everything out so that you have clearance.
Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..
1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light blue/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light blue/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light blue/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.
Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.
Ditch that idea it is not intended to work on 5.0 Mustangs. All you need are some common pipe fittings from the local home improvement store or hardware store. The cost should be less than $5.00.
If for some reason you need an oil cooler, get a kit from Ford Racing/ www.summitracing.com. That way it isn't cheap Chinese trash and you know it fits and works.
Did a good bit more seaching and reading. Pipe thread is not the same as the sender hole. The pipe nipples angle a little and cut metal as they go in. Not something I want to do.
I would like to find a good adapter plate not a cheep one, but that is all i Have found so far. Looks like the filter threading i2 3/4 / 16 I would like to get the guages in first and if I find the oil is hot then add the cooler if I need to.
Ditch that idea it is not intended to work on 5.0 Mustangs. All you need are some common pipe fittings from the local home improvement store or hardware store. The cost should be less than $5.00.
If for some reason you need an oil cooler, get a kit from Ford Racing/ www.summitracing.com. That way it isn't cheap Chinese trash and you know it fits and works.
Did a good bit more seaching and reading. Pipe thread is not the same as the sender hole. The pipe nipples angle a little and cut metal as they go in. Not something I want to do.
I would like to find a good adapter plate not a cheep one, but that is all i Have found so far. Looks like the filter threading i2 3/4 / 16 I would like to get the guages in first and if I find the oil is hot then add the cooler if I need to.
Try Google, that's what it is for...
The only time you need an oil cooler is for road racing and maybe extended autocross runs.
You must be looking at some import or something...
The oil pressure sender on a 5.0 Mustang screws into a hex shaped piece of bar stock with 1/4" pipe threads machined into it. The sender end has a 45 degree angle to get clearance for the oil pressure sender. The hex bar stock part screws into the engine block with a 1/4" pipe thread.
There are no holes to drill and no tapping to be done: it all fits together with minimum effort.