Had a tinking noise.. now car doesnt start

Does the car start?? The title says NO but the post asks about a blown clutch...a dead clutch would not prevent start up...I would look for a stuck lifter/broken RR. (that is if it starts)...bump

Sounds like you ran it out of oil. Does it turn over?

rod knock???

just a guess

jeremy

From your description so far... I'd guess that your motor is siezed. Get a long breaker bar and a socket for the crank and see if you can turn the motor by hand. If not... well.... it sucks but you're screwed.

Yeah, sounds like you seized your motor from lack of oil. Or maybe your stock bottom end just gave up... I hope thats not the case.

buff531 said:

if it siezed up why would it start ticking and tinking??

ill try that and post the reply.. obviously ill have to take off the accessory belt..

if its blown im saving for a new 331

i hope my blower is ok!!!

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If I'm right then all that ticking etc... was your engine trying to run with no lubrication. If you turn the key and activate your starter (you should hear a click at least) but the engine doesn't turn over then it's siezed. If you're ever in a car and you hear knocking or whatever your first response should be to look at your oil pressure guage. If it's bottomed out... shut it down! Do not pass go do not collect $200 but shut the car down.

Remove all 8 spark plugs, set them aside for inspection. Put the car in 5th gear and try to push it. If it turns over you are probably OK.

If the engine turns over when you push the car, it is likely that you have starter problems. If it doesn't turn then your problems are more serious.

Here's a checklist:

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103#volt for a diagram on how to do voltage drop testing

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check the battery. Most auto parts stores will do a free battery check if you bring them the battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Check the cables for cracks in the insulation, and corrosion around the wire where it joins the connector. Look for swelling of the cable’s diameter which would indicate corrosion inside the cable. Bending the cable can often reveal corrosive damage inside the cable when the outside looks OK.

4.) Put the car's transmission in neutral or has someone press in on the clutch. Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw) and jump it to the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) .) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then the relay is bad. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195960.gif for a very good diagram of the starter & neutral safety switch wiring

6.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring are good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid. If jumpering the two big solenoid posts made the starter crank, the logical next step is to replace the starter solenoid (also known as the starter relay).

7.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. If the starter fails the test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

Who did all your mods?
With all your mods, if you actually did them, you should have known better than to allow your motor to seize. Unbelievable.

Hey guys. He feels like it might be clutch related. What if something broke inside of the bellhousing and is jammed under the flywheel. I know it might sound a little "out there", but it could happen...couldn't it? If so, it could "lock-up" the engine, but not because of an internal failure, but because the flywheel just won't budge.

OL' WHITEY said:

Hey guys. He feels like it might be clutch related. What if something broke inside of the bellhousing and is jammed under the flywheel. I know it might sound a little "out there", but it could happen...couldn't it? If so, it could "lock-up" the engine, but not because of an internal failure, but because the flywheel just won't budge.

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Yeah it's possible and I hope you are right. The description does sound like a text book example of oil starvation though.

Well keep us posted about whats going on, im curious to know what yer problem is.

Thanks

yeah man I hope your right , for your sake, it sucks to pull a motor when you didn't plan to. but I guess it could be a possibilty that somthing is down there, try to turning the engine by hand with a breaker bar BOTH ways to see if it breaks lose one way and then turn easily, but I if you want to see in there I'd pull the starter and use a mirror to try to find somthing in there. good luck with your car and the Buck you got.

Another possible suggestion.

I had a beefed up 4 banger ford when I lived in Australia that produced 200 HP. I managed to seperate the ring gear from the flywheel (my mechanic said he had never seen a flywheel turn blue through both sides before ) I had 4.11 LSD is that beast. Anyways your problem sounds similar....starter "humming" because there is no ring gear to engage.

Hope it's something simple like that for you

sounds like a rod broke