HCI swap is complete!

HoofnIt

Founding Member

Jan 8, 2001

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36

North Carolina

Jul 3, 2004

#1

• Jul 3, 2004

• #1

Now the car doesn't start! It tried to start, and at one point it did, but wouldn't stay running and it was running real ROUGH. I re-checked the firing order and my #1 #2 plug wires were turned around. I fixed that and then checked distributor placement. It was one cog off, so I repositioned and clamped it down. I let it sit overnight with a battery charger on it and tried again this morning.
Well, still nothing. I took a wire and plug out and set it on the fender and tried turning the car over, NO spark! I then put a long plug wire w/plug on the coil and turned the car over again, and once again NO spark! WTF!
What do you guys think? I made sure the engine ground was hooked to the stud on the side of the timing cover.

 

HoofnIt

Founding Member

Jan 8, 2001

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North Carolina

Jul 3, 2004

#2

• Jul 3, 2004

• #2

Update: Turns out I didn't ground the spark plug while testing for spark. I hooked up a ground and I do have spark. I'm thinking that since I didn't adjust the rockers with the lifters primed that this the cause.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

Founding Member

Jan 14, 2001

6,819

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129

New York

Jul 3, 2004

#3

• Jul 3, 2004

• #3

First off, since the car was running, the distributer was NOT off. 2nd, its impossible to be a "tooth off". 3rd, try twisting your dist to advance the timing a little and see if it starts. Is your fuel pump priming??

Mike

 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

14,679

424

154

Boca Raton, Florida

Jul 3, 2004

#4

• Jul 3, 2004

• #4

If the valves won't open (rockers too tight) it will not start. I'm guessing these are stud mounts. Did you use the method on the FTI website? Like Grn92LX said, make sure you can here the fuel pump come on. Advance a bit to see if at least try to turn over.

 

HoofnIt

Founding Member

Jan 8, 2001

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36

North Carolina

Jul 3, 2004

#5

• Jul 3, 2004

• #5

Well, thanks for the input guys. I think the MAJOR problem was not having the lifters primed prior to adjusting the stud-mounted rockers. I went back and primed the lifters by removing the fuel relay fuse and turning the motor over a few times. I made sure I could not push the lifter down via the pushrod. I adjusted all of the valves per FRPP's instructions (which are the same as FTI and Crane.) They adjusted alot different this time around since the lifters were pumped up. I didn't see any metal chunks and checked the pushrods and they were all straight. I need to put in the fan and overflow tank and then I can give it another try.
My theory is that since the valves were adjusted without the lifters being primed, the valves were not lifting, hence the engine would turn over but did not want to run. Does this make sense or am I missing something? THX again.

 

HoofnIt

Founding Member

Jan 8, 2001

1,175

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36

North Carolina

Jul 3, 2004

#6

• Jul 3, 2004

• #6

Yes my fuel pump is priming as I hear the pump in the tank and my FP gauge on the rail is reading pressure.

its impossible to be a "tooth off".

Click to expand...

Well, there are numerous teeth in the distributer gear, and it can go in any of those grooves. The key is to have the #1 cylinder at TDC, compression stroke, and have the tip of the rotor cap pointing to the #1 cylinder on the cap. Right?

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

Founding Member

Jan 14, 2001

6,819

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129

New York

Jul 3, 2004

#7

• Jul 3, 2004

• #7

It doesn't matter what tooth its on, as long as theres enough room to rotate the distributer for the correct timing. As for the setting the rockers, I set mine when they werent pumped and it was fine. The car sat for 2 weeks as I slowly changed a blown head gasket and waited for parts to arrive. It doesn't matter how you set them, as long as its right. I do mine very different than how most do it.

You need to advance the dist and it should start..

 

WhiteDevil

New Member

Feb 4, 2003

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San Diego

Jul 3, 2004

#8

• Jul 3, 2004

• #8

Dont you have to have the fan in with the CCRM plugged in for the car to start?

 

HoofnIt

Founding Member

Jan 8, 2001

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36

North Carolina

Jul 3, 2004

#9

• Jul 3, 2004

• #9

I wasn't sure about the fan and CCRM, so I did it anyhow.

GREAT NEWS!!!! The valve adjustment must have done the trick because the beast is ALIVE! I couldn't be happier, it's finally running. It won't idle but thats to be expected due to the cam swap and computer learning time. It starts kinda hard but I know the plugs are probably fouled out due to me holding the throttle part-way.

I plugged the EGR for now and I know it is probably leaking-just used a penny, gasket and gasket sealer. The pass. side header/x-pipe flange is leaking-POS Magnaflow. I will need to set the timing and get it up to operatinging temp, let it cool, and retorque the heads, intake, and headers. Then it should be road ready!

THX again guys!

 

GTJake

Founding Member

Oct 28, 2002

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56

Ann Arbor, MI

Jul 3, 2004

#10

• Jul 3, 2004

• #10

Good to hear it's running! Congrats.

Jake

 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

Founding Member

Aug 7, 2002

9,516

6

99

Arkansas

Jul 3, 2004

#11

• Jul 3, 2004

• #11

I thought that you didn't have to prime the lifters because the plunger in the lifters does it already...I thought you just had to prime the engine before starting...

 

RIO5.0

15 Year Member

Feb 16, 2001

6,892

8

128

N.H.

Jul 3, 2004

#12

• Jul 3, 2004

• #12

Glad to hear you got it...That hard starting could very well be the timing...If its to far off, they will start hard...

 

S

SnakeBite98

New Member

Jul 11, 2003

94

0

0

Poway, CA

Jul 4, 2004

#13

• Jul 4, 2004

• #13

WhiteDevil said:

Dont you have to have the fan in with the CCRM plugged in for the car to start?

Click to expand...

When he had the CCRM unplugged he had the same problem, car wouldn't start, but the fuel pump primed.