do the push rods have to come out to pull the heads, or could they just be disconected and left in, can a bring the engine to TDC before I pull it apart. i just have to line up the crankshaft damper with the TDC mark on the timing chain cover, right.
pull the valve covers, unbolt the rocker arms (set aside in order), pull the push rods (also set aside in the order of removal), unbolt heads, remove heads, scrape off ALL remains of old gasket, use a thread chaser through all holes in block that are threaded to ensure clean holes, get new head bolts (the new bolts are torque to yield and are stretched, you'll never get a good clamping force with old bolts), place new gasket on block
with the gasket, it must line up on the dowel pin and also face up where the gasket says "up right"...... put the head on, bolt to specs, reinstall push rods in order of removal, put rocker arms back.
As far as TDC, with the cars having pedestal mount rocker arms, it's not a big issue whether or not the engine is at TDC, but it does help drivability and prevents valve lash. I'd highly recommend leaving the valve covers off and rolling the engine over by hand while adjusting the rocker arms individually as the valves compress.
well the job is done at first she had a slight tick but that went away, it was def the head gasket it was blown a #3 and #6 cyls. How hot should the car be running it seams to move from RM, once its dead center M the fan kicks on and it drops to low R almost O, this is at an Idel, driving it will stay dead on OR more so the R side, the reason I did the head gasket job was because it would run hot to almost redline, and the heat would crap out, took the car to ford and they said it needed a head gasket, still seams to run normal but a bit warm
Oh the stat is good tested it, and it opens its rated for 197, but that seams a bit hot