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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Header install

  • Thread starter Thread starter emcobra
  • Start date Start date Jun 17, 2004

emcobra

New Member
Apr 29, 2004
15
0
0
Michigan
Jun 17, 2004
#1
  • Jun 17, 2004
  • #1
Ok I must be missing something how are able to get the front bolt in on drivers side? I have spent a couple hours working on just the bolts on the driver side... please help
 

SN95StangMan

New Member
Jul 5, 2003
1,292
0
0
Lynwood, CA
Jun 17, 2004
#2
  • Jun 17, 2004
  • #2
I used an open ended 1/2" wrench. Dont bother with a socket because it is almost impossible to get in there without moving the power steering pump. Same thing goes for the bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger side. If you have some ratcheting wrenches it will help a lot too.

*Edit*
What kind of headers are you installing?
 

94TURBO5 O

New Member
Mar 14, 2004
2,509
0
0
VA
Jun 17, 2004
#3
  • Jun 17, 2004
  • #3
Patience and enthusiastic attitude Take a break and go back at it and take your time. Yes ratchets are useless on header install unless you are putting them on the heads before heads are installed. You try to thread it as much as you can by hand and use some wd40 on it. Good luck
 

Black95GTS

Active Member
Jan 8, 2004
1,644
3
38
Marlborough, MA
Jun 17, 2004
#4
  • Jun 17, 2004
  • #4
I've always used liquid wrench but most guys on these forums swear by PB Blaster. Liberally coat everything with either of these products and then go to town. When I did my MAC headers (never having done headers before), it took me about 12 hours or so total, but that includes beer breaks. Just keep at it, you'll work it out in the end.
 

greg94080

New Member
Apr 5, 2004
79
0
0
vacaville, ca
Jun 17, 2004
#5
  • Jun 17, 2004
  • #5
When you guys installed yer headers, were they already disconnected from the rest of the exhaust? I just did a headswap and was having issues with getting all sides connected. Gonna borrow a lift this weekend and get under there and disconnect em so that I can get the headers on.
 

JJ95GTID

Active Member
Sep 22, 2003
1,141
4
49
Phoenix, AZ
Jun 17, 2004
#6
  • Jun 17, 2004
  • #6
It is a good idea to at least loosen the four H-pipe bolts (two each side) so that you got some play in moving the headers up against the heads to get the bolts installed. How could you tighten the bottom head bolts with the headers still bolted to the H-pipe?
 

emcobra

New Member
Apr 29, 2004
15
0
0
Michigan
Jun 17, 2004
#7
  • Jun 17, 2004
  • #7
Well its done, thanks for the encouragement I ending up getting that front bolt with a swivel ¼ socket and 2 long extensions from underneath. Any that a ¼ drive wouldn’t fit were open end wrench.

I installed Mac longtube, Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster American Thunder cat back, ASP underdrive pulleys, Talor wires, New plugs, cap etc, removed smog and egr. Whole install took me about 7 hrs yesterday and 6 more today had nice hoist and work area that helped a lot. Guess thats a benefit of working for a school system that has a large auto shop.

Next be an adjustable fuel pressure regulator seems to be running rich

Have to say love the results just didn’t expect near the time on install, I installed a similar on a 93 I owned before, sure remember it went a lot quicker but then it was 7 years ago.
 

Black95GTS

Active Member
Jan 8, 2004
1,644
3
38
Marlborough, MA
Jun 17, 2004
#8
  • Jun 17, 2004
  • #8
I did my headers and high flow cats at the same time, I can't see how you could do headers and remain sane with the mid pipe getting in your way the whole time. After killin myself on the headers the midpipe went in super easy. I recommend replacing the flange bolts while you are at, mine were in rough shape.... also, when you do manage to get the headers on, take a spin around the block with open headers to give yourself a little treat!

EDIT - I see you finished... and you had a lift? Cheater! Congrats, she must feel like a new animal after all that!
 
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