What's up guys? I recently replaced my headers with BBK unequal lenght headers and now they rub against my steering shaft. I know that bashing the header in will take care of the problem but I would rather fix it correctly. Do you think my motor mounts are bad? I had the same headers on my coupe and never had an issue with clearance. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
Headers rubbing up on steering shaft
- Thread starter erniet17
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BK_CAULEY
it's built for speed not longevity, woman
before i even read where you said motor mount smight be bad i was going to say check them. had he same problem before too. check the mounts 
The passenger side header will likely be close or contacting with lower parts of the chassis also, if the mounts are worn. I had contact with both sides on worn mounts, but after putting new mounts in the driver side baaaarely rattles against the steering shaft.
I also had mid pipe fitment problems with the BBK headers, but I guess I can somewhat blame that on using a Hedman X-pipe rather than a BBK unit.
Like I said, I'm holding my breath until I have the money for a new exhaust to replace my mixed bag of current exhaust parts.
I also had mid pipe fitment problems with the BBK headers, but I guess I can somewhat blame that on using a Hedman X-pipe rather than a BBK unit.
Like I said, I'm holding my breath until I have the money for a new exhaust to replace my mixed bag of current exhaust parts.
mustangfan1990
New Member
I use to have the same problems with my longtubes...one day I was driving and pulled out of a parking lot and turned left and the shaft got wedged in the headers and the wheel got stuck and I couldnt move the wheel...needless to say I ran a car off the road and I got CUSSED lol
NKau
Founding Member
If you need a little more clearance, you can always slip a washer(s) under the motor mount on whichever side is giving you trouble.
I fabbed up .5 or .25 aluminum spacers but did not end up using them. I still have them somewhere...
2 fairly easy fixes:
1) Loosen the 4 bolts that attach steering column to dash inside the car. Use pry bar to separate shaft from header. Tighten bolts. Probably won't notice the difference in the steering wheel.
2) Loosen the engine mounts and shift the engine to the passenger side slightly. Probably need engine hoist for this one.
Header companies can't cover every alignment because of the adjustment range of the parts.
1) Loosen the 4 bolts that attach steering column to dash inside the car. Use pry bar to separate shaft from header. Tighten bolts. Probably won't notice the difference in the steering wheel.
2) Loosen the engine mounts and shift the engine to the passenger side slightly. Probably need engine hoist for this one.
Header companies can't cover every alignment because of the adjustment range of the parts.
- Jul 12, 2017
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Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
You can also pull or push the stubby section coming out of the firewall as it will change how close the shaft is to the headers, when I put an 04 Cobra Rack in I had to change the length of it.
Like said.
Looses four column bolts and shift column away, or adjust the telescoping section of the column by tapping it in or out
If that doesn't work, dimple. Will have no effect on power
Had to do the above when I installed my MM shaft and Cobra steering rack
Looses four column bolts and shift column away, or adjust the telescoping section of the column by tapping it in or out
If that doesn't work, dimple. Will have no effect on power
Had to do the above when I installed my MM shaft and Cobra steering rack
giddyup306
Founding Member
- Oct 22, 2002
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Yikes! Bashing in your headers is a little extreme. If you are thinking about going to go to a manual rack, the steering shaft is a lot smaller from Flaming River. However the shaft itself is not cheap. I was pisses when I found out mine would not work with the OEM shaft.
geoklass
Active Member
Header fitment problems are many times connected to the motor mount issues. The safest bet is to stick with OEM motor mounts. Personally, I prefer the aftermarket types, like Energy Suspension or ProThane, etc. The problem is that some of the after market motor mounts lower the engine, some up to 3/4 of an inch. Remember, the headers bolt to the engine so when you lower it in the chassis, you are lowering the headers, too. Headers for production cars are orginally designed to clear things under the hood like steering shafts and chassis parts. And many times, even the sales people that sell aftermarket mounts do not realize that they may lower the engine. But here is the good news, there is an easy fix. First, undo the bolts (two per side) that attach the engine mounts to the engine (even with the bolts out, the engine will still remain in place). Second, with a floor jack under the oil pan, gentally jack up the engine 1/2" to 3/4", or until the headers do not touch anything on the chassis. Use some nice flat washers between the motor mounts and the engine and stick the bolts back in and tighten them down. And now you won't need to dimple the headers...
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