help! '67 brakes. new wheels? 2003 cobra brakes or stock style?

[THX 138]

if I wana run late model wheels (2003 cobra) should I not redo the stock disk brakes in front? Would goign with a bigger rotor and PBR caliper help get the width I want?

from what I've seen these old brakes have the hub built in like GM used on the rwd cars and s10-trucks. The latemodel brakes have a hub behind the disks right? Simpler no?

 

[Snail50]

I'm not sure what you mean by getting "the width [you] want", but there are prosthetics on the market which can cure that problem very inexpensively. I know this personally, being roughly on par with a bull field mouse.

But if you mean widening the front track, I'd recommend not trying to widen it at all; when I did my Baer conversion, the front track didn't widen, and the rear track widended marginally, but in both front and rear I am at the absolute limit for clearance & I do have the correct backspacing on my wheels.

The Baer kit uses PBR components and has the hub behind the rotor, and if you remove the caliper the rotor comes right off.

 

[THX 138]

ya width meant widending the track since the new wheels have the extra offset.

So is that hub baer uses made by them? Is there another way to get that? I saw that the stock caliper has 4 pistons, on the parts store online website. Is that bad? Is the new style PBR 2 piston caliper that much better? This has me kind of worried. I don't wana do this wrong. In this article do they use the PBR calipers on the stock rotors? http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/discs66.html PBR caliper They also weld a bunch of little pieces together for some kind of spacer adapter bracket. Any idea about that? Wouldn't it be easier to have a machinist make one from a block of steel?

 

[JPONY645]

You're going to need the adapters like THIS to run late model wheels on the stock brakes.

I suggest you do ALOT of studying and research before attempting any kind of brake work. I'm not sure what Woody was looking for when doing what he did. With the Grenada spindles, you're going to have much more bumpsteer than with the stock ones if you do the Shelby mod/lowering springs.

Those 4 pot calipers are very good. I know several people that are still using the stock discs on their cars and open track them with no significant problems.

 

[THX 138]

You're going to need the adapters like THIS to run late model wheels on the stock brakes.

I suggest you do ALOT of studying and research before attempting any kind of brake work. I'm not sure what Woody was looking for when doing what he did. With the Grenada spindles, you're going to have much more bumpsteer than with the stock ones if you do the Shelby mod/lowering springs.

Those 4 pot calipers are very good. I know several people that are still using the stock discs on their cars and open track them with no significant problems.

thanks! can you explain the bumsteer situation with stock (disk brake)spindle setup? Do 17x9 fit in front?

 

[JPONY645]

Taken from the website of Stangnet's very own BobV.

"Bumpsteer is one of the most misunderstood suspension terms out there. It's often blamed for other suspension problems, yet ignored when it IS the problem.

Basically, bumpsteer is defined as "unwanted toe changes occurring during vertical suspension travel". It most often shows up when one tire hits a bump (while the other doesn't), causing a toe change that makes the car steer in that direction. Bumpsteer happens when the arc of the control arm and the arc of the tie rod assembly differ - in either angle or radius length. Most cars have some degree of bumpsteer from the factory - including Mustangs. The bumpsteer worsens when we change ride height, suspension components, and/or suspension geometry.

The best way to check for bumpsteer is to remove the springs and cycle the suspension up & down, checking toe (in/out) at once inch intervals. The quick check is to verify toe at ride height, then lift the car chassis 2 inches and check toe again. It's not unusual to find an inch of toe change at full travel and a 1/4"+ under the "quick check". Bumpsteer causes unpredictable handling, poor braking (due to excessive toe out), tire wear, and even excessive drag, due to the tires scrubbing the pavement (especially on a drag car).

There are basically two kinds of "bumpsteer corrector kits" available. The first is a fixed block that lowers the outer pivot point, and moves it closer to the spindle centerline for quicker steering response. The second type uses an adjustable end that allows the outer mounting point to be moved a variable amount, for fine-tuning.

Check the Suspension Tech Links section for more detailed articles on bumpsteer, and the Suspension Vendors Links section for corrector kit resources."

 

[allcarfan]

You're going to need the adapters like THIS to run late model wheels on the stock brakes.

I suggest you do ALOT of studying and research before attempting any kind of brake work. I'm not sure what Woody was looking for when doing what he did. With the Grenada spindles, you're going to have much more bumpsteer than with the stock ones if you do the Shelby mod/lowering springs.

Those 4 pot calipers are very good. I know several people that are still using the stock discs on their cars and open track them with no significant problems.

DO NOT buy the kit in that mustangs weekly advertisement. It is WAY overpriced. You can get the exact same wheel adapters on ebay or from [email protected] for about half that price and it includes lug nuts. It pains me to see a company like that taking advantage of mustang owners.

 

[JPONY645]

 

[Snail50]

my Baer kit didn't need adapters...everything bolted right up.

my kit has 2 piston calipers up front, but they are pretty hefty. If you go to Baer's website, Ithink they have an explanation of why they chose to use two pistons as opposed to four...and I think they claim that their two-piston setup will outperform most 4 piston brakes. Who know?

From what I see with the kit, the two pistons simplify things a great deal because you don't have teh brake fluid plumbing on both sides of the caliper, just on one.

I'm by no means an authority on this, so I can't answer detailed tech questions...I'm just good at bolting up new parts to my old car.