Help Help Help Please!!!!! Very High Idle

check the pcv hose / valve on the back of the motor. Look and listen for open or disconnected vacuum hoses. What about gaskets / bolts...all there and torqued down?

check voltage on tps sensor. set to correct voltage. .98 reset computer and set idle should find resetting idle on a search good luck

Sounds like a vacum leak. Check all your hoses. If not, try this. Ford (who would have thought) puts out a great part that's easy to install and keeps you from having to reset the voltage on the tps every time. It's called an "idle air bypass solenoid service spacer", part #f2pe-f9f39-aa. It allows adjusting the amount of air bypassed around the throttle body at idle. The idle is altered by venting air rather than adjusting the idle set screw.

good question i just changed my intake and my car
idles fast also but not that high
about 1300 or 1400 rpm i idled it down and it still idies back up.
any help will do.

Forgot to mention one thing. That "idle air bypass" from ford is very inexpensive, somewhere in the neighborhood of $20 I believe.

voltage should be .98 v do a search for the procedure for setting tps. also check for vacume leaks. If the iac is not stuck open and is closed and unpluged. with the throttle blade closed all the way. the only way it would idle fast is a vacume leak check all vacume lines. to make sure they are connected and not cracked. also check gasket seal.

Check and see if the TB is sticking open a bit. Sometimes when they are new they will stick a little.

The idle speed on these cars (speed density and mass air) is controlled by the computer. The programming in the ecu provides for an idle around 675 rpm. The computer knows the rpm of the engine, and it sends signals to both the iab solenoid and occasionally ignition timing to control to that point. Many people think the screw under the throttle body is an idle speed adjuster - it's not. It's simply a throttle stop screw - keeps the throttle plate from closing too far and binding. If the car's idling too high it's because 1) the computer's telling it to do the wrong thing (unlikely given what you changed), 2) the iab solenoid or timing module can't do what the computer's telling them (unlikely given what you worked on), 3) the engine's getting too much air from some other source (very likely given what you worked on).

The throttle stop should be set by backing it off the throttle linkage, inserting a .003" feeler blade between the screw and linkage, tightening the screw until it just touches the blade, and then turning the screw 1/4 turn more. With the engine warm, and the throttle stop in that position, the tps sensor should be set to read in the .85V-.95V range. There is no performance benefit to setting it any higher than that, and the closer you get to 1V the more likely you are to have low speed and off idle mixture issues. Do not set it above .95V. After you've done that, disconnect the battery to clear out the computer and see if it will idle properly.

If it won't, but it idled fine before your swap, then it's unlikely your iab solenoid just happened to take a crap while you were doing the swap. If in doubt, pull the iab solenoid and clean it throughly. Remember it's electro-mechanical - so soap and water are no-nos. Carb or brake cleaner and small brushes to get inside it. The plunger should move freely and it should be free of scum/scuziness (technical terms) inside. The idle air bypass plate described perfectly by makarov above was a Ford recall item that inexpensively allowed Ford to get decent idles from cars that probably needed to have their throttle bodies and/or iab solenoids cleaned and/or replaced. It was a $20 fix to problems that when fixed properly would have cost Ford much more to resolve in parts and/or labor. If your throttle body and iab solenoid are clean and were working properly before the swap, the idle air plate should not be needed.

More than likely as someone above said, you have a vacuum leak. It's very common to leave something unplugged or to have cracked an old vacuum hose or broken on old plastic fitting when disconnecting and reconnecting everything. It's more common to just have forgotten to reconnect everything. Did you mark each hose that came off and the position of the manifold that you removed it from? Did you replace all the old vacuum hoses that you disconnected? Those two steps are a good rule of thumb when working on these cars - you can use it for next time. Don't forget the hose between the valve cover oil filler nipple and the throttle body - it's part of the pcv system, and not having it in place allows unmetered air to enter the intake through the pcv valve.

Have you pulled error codes out of the diagnostic port?

What Michael said. Error code readers can be purchased inexpensively, or you can get your local kragen auto parts store (or whatever they call them in your area) to do it for free.