Help me pick a tubular K-member for my 93

slvr302

Founding Member

May 10, 2002

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New Jersey

Nov 2, 2004

#1

• Nov 2, 2004

• #1

1. Car is primarily street driven so it needs to be strong enough to endure that. I don't need a k-member designed specifically for drag racing.

2. Will be using stock control arms w/springs
3. Will be using a 351W with long tube headers.
4. Do not want wheels to be moved in/out or forward.


I was looking into either HAl-MU2TK, D&DMotorsports DDTK102, or possibly one from AJE. (Or any other recommendations)

Direct fitment (installation) without any issues is desired.

 

TT91

Active Member

May 23, 2003

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Paramus, NJ

Nov 2, 2004

#2

• Nov 2, 2004

• #2

they make aftermarket a-arms with stock springs perches, search around, the stock units are hidieous

 

1986LX2002

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Aug 15, 2002

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Nov 2, 2004

#3

• Nov 2, 2004

• #3

Might give this a look,

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/kmember.asp

 

slvr302

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May 10, 2002

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New Jersey

Nov 2, 2004

#4

• Nov 2, 2004

• #4

1986LX2002 said:

Might give this a look,

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/kmember.asp

Click to expand...

I did. Maximum requires coil over. I want to use stock A-arms and spring set up

 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Altoona, PA

Nov 2, 2004

#5

• Nov 2, 2004

• #5

http://www.paracing.com

Talk to Jason, he has EVERYTHING you need and his K memebers are some of the best in the business. AJE is also good.

 

ImportEater98

New Member

Mar 17, 2003

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Worcester, MA

Nov 2, 2004

#6

• Nov 2, 2004

• #6

i have an 87 notch and i ordered the QA1 k member from summit. I used my STOCK a-arms because i dont' think the price of the tubular ones is worth the weight savings. The only snag you hit is you have to grind part of the head of the bolt that goes in the rearmost part of the control arm mount to get it to clear a peice of the tube. Other than that it went in fine. I painted my stock arms gloss black and they look great. Don't waste your money on tubulars unless you have everything and you have $350 to throw away

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

Founding Member

Jan 15, 2002

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89

Dallas, GA

Nov 3, 2004

#7

• Nov 3, 2004

• #7

You can get a set of A arms for far less than $350. I spent way too much money on my stockers. I took my stocker out, put in some Energy Suspension poly bushings and new ball joints, then painted them. I paid about $110 for the parts, then paid the guy at NAPA $15 to press them in becuase the shop press wasn't the right kind, but the time I put into them was stupid. I went coil-over anyways. When the controll arms are all togeather, you are reminded that they were designed in the 1970's.

 

blown93feature

New Member

Dec 9, 2003

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living on edge like the motor

Nov 3, 2004

#8

• Nov 3, 2004

• #8

My friend used pa performance for his K member and said everything lined up perfect and didn't change any of the specs.I also want to add that he kept the stock A arms in place and still had no issues.

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

9,692

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PA

Nov 3, 2004

#9

• Nov 3, 2004

• #9

The QA1 model moves the front wheels 1" forward, not an issue if you have skinnies but it can be an issue with a stock sized wheel with a big tire.

If your looking for a good street set-up that you can retain the stock style stuff I would defintily go PA Racing. www.jasonsmithracing.com (Jason and Vern the owners of PA split awhile back, that above link is the correct one)

 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl

15 Year Member

Mar 4, 2003

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Allentown, PA

Nov 3, 2004

#10

• Nov 3, 2004

• #10

Is there any other k-member besides from PA that will not change the car's track width or wheelbase? The PA k-member is just too much money. $400 and then shipping. Everyone else is a lot cheaper.

 

jaidedeye

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Apr 4, 2004

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Goldsboro nc

Nov 3, 2004

#11

• Nov 3, 2004

• #11

look on ebay ..ground pounder sells the whole k member with a-arms and coil over kit for 500 bucks

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

9,692

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99

PA

Nov 3, 2004

#12

• Nov 3, 2004

• #12

The Ground Pounder set-up is JUNK, and it is a very heavy piece.

This is not a place to go cheap on, quality is number 1, alot is riding on that K-member......

 

slvr302

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May 10, 2002

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New Jersey

Nov 3, 2004

#13

• Nov 3, 2004

• #13

Rick 91GT said:

The QA1 model moves the front wheels 1" forward, not an issue if you have skinnies but it can be an issue with a stock sized wheel with a big tire.

If your looking for a good street set-up that you can retain the stock style stuff I would defintily go PA Racing. www.jasonsmithracing.com (Jason and Vern the owners of PA split awhile back, that above link is the correct one)

Click to expand...

I definitely DO NOT want my wheels moved in anyway so I guess the QA1/HAL is out because I read somewhere else that the wheels get moved.

I will look into PA Racing or Anthony Jones AJE for my street setup.

 

Joe Jr.

Founding Member

Nov 16, 2001

207

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Longmont area of Colorado

Nov 3, 2004

#14

• Nov 3, 2004

• #14

Good thread, i've been contemplating this whole question myself. I was set on the Qa1 until i saw the PA k-member. That does suck about the QA1 moving the wheels forward. I know its better geometry, but I'm planning on putting Saleens on my notch (18's).

 

jaidedeye

Member

Apr 4, 2004

627

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Goldsboro nc

Nov 3, 2004

#15

• Nov 3, 2004

• #15

Rick 91GT said:

The Ground Pounder set-up is JUNK, and it is a very heavy piece.

This is not a place to go cheap on, quality is number 1, alot is riding on that K-member......

Click to expand...

i wouldnt know if it was junk or not , just putting in my unput. i have the ground punder front coil over kit and like it

 

5.0 HOtrain

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May 20, 2001

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New Hampshire

Nov 3, 2004

#16

• Nov 3, 2004

• #16

I run the D&D set up. It can be used with stock springs or coil-overs. It's been in my car for over 10k. I ran it with the 302, and now run it with the 418 stroker with 1 7/8 longtubes.
mike.

 

Joe Jr.

Founding Member

Nov 16, 2001

207

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Longmont area of Colorado

Nov 9, 2004

#17

• Nov 9, 2004

• #17

Hey 5.0 hotrain, with that d&d did it move the front wheels forward like the QA1? I'm trying to make this decision myself but still want to be able to put 17x8' sor 17x9's on the front of my 91 Notch. Thanks for any info..

Joe

 

5.0 HOtrain

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May 20, 2001

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New Hampshire

Nov 9, 2004

#18

• Nov 9, 2004

• #18

Joe Jr. said:

Hey 5.0 hotrain, with that d&d did it move the front wheels forward like the QA1? I'm trying to make this decision myself but still want to be able to put 17x8' sor 17x9's on the front of my 91 Notch. Thanks for any info..

Joe

Click to expand...

The D&D retains the factory geometry and location. I havent had any issues with mine, this was the third year with it.
mike.

 

Joe Jr.

Founding Member

Nov 16, 2001

207

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19

Longmont area of Colorado

Nov 10, 2004

#19

• Nov 10, 2004

• #19

Mike, thanks for the info. I emailed D&D yesterday, and they confirmed what you said. Looks like i'm going with D&D myself. I think i'm going with their a-arms and coil over set up also. Did you go with the coil overs on yours? if so, what's a good spring rate to start with?
later
Joe