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Help me with my idle problems...please!

  • Thread starter Thread starter extremetrek
  • Start date Start date Jul 19, 2006
E

extremetrek

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
106
0
0
Prescott, AZ (66.6%) Central Point, OR (33.4%)
Jul 19, 2006
#1
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #1
Hey :SNSign:


First let me say I have searched and gone through the "Surging Idle Checklist" and still not really sure, though honestly I haven't completed any steps that required a voltmeter as this is not something I have at my disposal but can obtain if you guys think the situation warrants it.

My car is mostly stock (few mods in sig) and ever since I swapped the intake the idle has a been a litte strange, a little lopey but no real big deal until about 3 days ago. All of sudden at idle and especially in drive the car sounds like one of those big time dragsters at the track rumbling and shaking with the RPM's bouncing between 550-800. This happens about 2 minutes after startup and then any time the car is stopped at a stoplight etc...

There is also what begins as a low rumble coming from the intake inlet side of the engine either from the EGR or lower maybe the #4 cylinder? The surging goes away and the car drives fine anything above 1k but the sounds turns into some sort of a click, like the sound a go-kart makes as the rpms increase, i am thinking this might be an EGR leak and the source of my problems.

So far I have tried resetting the idle with the IAC disconnected, cleaning the MAF and TB, checked and repaired a few vaccuum leaks which were throwing CEL codes and cleared that, replaced the fuel filter (I think it was original ). I don't have access to my code reader at the moment but the codes I was getting were 311 and 314.

The other thing is that I have never checked my timing...could that be causing the problem? I know I have to run 89 octane or she pings, again don't have access to a timing light but I could get one if need be. If it is the EGR how do I fix that? I know i can remove it but is that a challenging thing to do?

Ask all the questions you need, i'll try to pop on often and check for replies. Thanks so much for all the help!
 
E

extremetrek

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
106
0
0
Prescott, AZ (66.6%) Central Point, OR (33.4%)
Jul 19, 2006
#2
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #2
Just to add...when the car is surging at idle if the lights are on they will flicker on and off like the car is loosing electrical power but the car never actualy dies. Also the ammeter (stock) is always on the VERY high side of normal...could this be alternator related?
 

1TallMF

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
955
1
0
Montreal
Jul 19, 2006
#3
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #3
Have you checked the vaccum with a gauge? If so, does it jump around a bunch? Have you tried retoquing your intake bolts after you first installed it? It is possible that its an egr issue, try appying vaccum to the valve and see if the diaphragm holds it (either with a vaccum pump or by sucking on a hose attached to the nipple) (wow, let that be the only time I use the words sucking and nipple in the same sentence on stangnet ) And also check the connection for the egr tube at the header pipe, as these can be problematic. But IMO that "clicking" sound you are hearing could actually be pinging as a result of a vaccum leak (unmetered air entering the engine).

One last thing, run a cylinder balance test with the code reader. This can give you an indication as to whether the problem resides in one particular cylinder and will make troubleshooting easier.
 
E

extremetrek

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
106
0
0
Prescott, AZ (66.6%) Central Point, OR (33.4%)
Jul 19, 2006
#4
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #4
Timing makes no change, car occasionaly bucks under power (45, 55mph for sure) sounds of an exhaust leak. Blue cap near oil dipstick hisses continuously. Three vacuum lines (red, green, peach) all broke and were repaired. I don't know how to test the vacuum. If I hold the rpms at 900-1000 the thing doesn't seem as bad...I am at a loss and trying my best here. I bough a multimeter to check the IAC and so on, but I am so frustrated by it that I am not going to do it right now....The lower intake is totally torqued upper and lower, how do I check the vaccuum. Thanks again!
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Jul 19, 2006
#5
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #5
I'd second checking for a vaccum leak - possibly from the back of the intake at the PCV valve/grommet.
 
E

extremetrek

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
106
0
0
Prescott, AZ (66.6%) Central Point, OR (33.4%)
Jul 20, 2006
#6
  • Jul 20, 2006
  • #6
Stanger007 said:
I'd second checking for a vaccum leak - possibly from the back of the intake at the PCV valve/grommet.
Click to expand...


HOW?
 
E

extremetrek

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
106
0
0
Prescott, AZ (66.6%) Central Point, OR (33.4%)
Jul 21, 2006
#7
  • Jul 21, 2006
  • #7
Summary:

So far I have
* Changed Fuel Filter - No effect
* Replaced 3 broken vacuum lines
* Checked TPS Voltage (1.04)
* Cleaned TB, IAC, MAF- No effect
* Checked timing and adjusted- No effect
* Looked for as many Vac leaks as possible- None
* Reset Idle with IAC removed- no effect
* Checked torque on Upper and Lower Intake- fine

The problems?

* When the car starts (cold) it dies immediately brand new just started yesterday.
* Terrible idle, car jerks around RPM's between 550-700
* Intermittent pinging, almost missing esp after prolonged driving at constant RPM. The jerks start after the car sits at that RPM for a few seconds.
* Funny sounds (I think thats an exhaust leak)
* Blue valve near oil dipstick eternally hissing

So if nobody has any ideas I will tear down the upper and lower and reseal the gaskets in hopes that that solves the problem...its been a year since the swap i'd like to think I did a better job than that. Thanks for the help!
 
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