HELP, my aod is leaking faster then the titanic did

[luckythirteen13]

for nearly as long as ive had my car its had a tiny trans leak. nothing worth worrying about. last saterday my alt. died so my car sat in the garage till thursday. didnt leak at all. put my new alt in and drove it around that day/evening and noticed a single drop about the size of a half dollar. didnt think anything of it. when i left for work today i noticed a couple of these large drops in the driveway (something my dad hates). after work i decided to continue tuning it with my wide band o2. made about 8 0-80mph runs during the testing. running 13:1 (still a touch rich) but thats another story for another time. so i go inside at watch tv. come back out a few hours later and find 6 big drops, each about 2.5" in diameter. 3 drops on each side of the trans. there was some oil on the trans cooler lines coming from the transmission (both lines were tight i checked) but not much and that wouldnt explain why both sides have big drops. is there anything on the top like an opening that could be spitting it out? i checked the pan bolts, just about all of them needed about .25-.5 of a turn so i did that. i sprayed the whole trans with carb cleaner so that i have a fresh start and will look at it again tomorrow. you think it could be the pan? what should i look for. i wanted to do a cam but now im thinking manual valve body and then take it to a trans shop to let them fix the leak permenantly. what do you guys think?

 

[Modular2v]

u will love that manual valve body if u get it....that and a stall and that thing will RIP!!!! get the leak fixed too

 

[TheBocSez]

The only thing on top that I can think of that could leak would be the O ring where the dip stick plugs into the trans case. My pan leaks bad from the back of the pan when I park it nose up on an incline so I just park it nose down and no leak. I thinks its because I am not getting the rear pan bolts in well due to the cross member. PS: The manual VB would be a good investment. I have the Lentech street terminator but have thought about swapping it out for a full manual, but then again. I am also thinking about a T5 swap. who knows.

 

[luckythirteen13]

well the leak is much less now with the bolts tighter so i think i need a new pan gasket. it looks pretty bad....the bit that is visible. i bet your right about the filler neck. the leak after i tightened the bolts is mainly on the right. in noticing a little bit of engine oil too. im over 3k miles with this oil so im not surprised. plus its 85*-90* every day.
Modular2v i already have a high stall converter
TheBocSez did you notice a decent gain at the track with the new manual valve body? what shifter do you use?

 

[TheBocSez]

TheBocSez: did you notice a decent gain at the track with the new manual valve body? what shifter do you use?

I have never taken my car to the track. The VB that I have is a Lentech Street Terminator, it is not a full manual VB, but more a street strip type with electric OD delete. I can manually shift or leave it in OD and let the trans do all the work.

As far as a difference with the VB, I noticed a great SOTP difference. With a stock engine, 4.10's and a non-lock 2800 stall, my 1-2 shift is firm and fast. The shift dosent chirp the tires, it spins them. The 2-3 shift is quick and tight also but no spin or chirp. Def. worth the money. I would do the manual VB but the wife drives the car every now and then and she complained about having to lift the trigger on the B&M Hammer shifter. I dont want to hear the complaints about having to manually shift an automatic.

As far as a shifter, I used to run the B&M Hammer and it was nice. Got rid of it for the above stated reason. I am currently using a stock shifter with a B&M Shifter Gate Plate. Works very similar to the Hammer shifter in that it will not let you over shift from 1 to N. Once you are in 1, it will only shift up 1 gear into D. To get from D to OD, you have to lightly press the shift button and it will go into OD. From there its just like stock and for 25.00 you cant beat it. Installs easy. Remove the stock shifter, drill out the rivits that hold the stock gate plate in, place the B&M in its place and rivit or use a nut and bolt to hold it and your done! Heres a link to it. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4281&prmenbr=361

 

[luckythirteen13]

sounds sweet. thanks for the info. i should be getting a decent check wednesday so i guess ill be giving lentech a call

 

[macx]

To stop pan leaks once and for all, try this.

Spray the bolts AND the bolt holes with carb spray. Blow dry w/compressed air if you have it, or let air dry.

Put a dab of loctite on the bolts when you install them, and torque them to factory specs. Let it sit overnite. Those bolts will never vibrate loose.

 

[luckythirteen13]

thanks for the tip. i will defenitely try that when i open the trans up.