help!!!!....running problem

[cornholio47]

Ok i need alot of help here this has totally got me and my friends stumped. Ok we just put a motor in my car, i had the motor bored .030, explorer upper and lower, e cam, and gt40p headers. ok we put the motor together and correctly i might add ( i have alot of faith in justin ). well got it in the car and try to start it it runs then shuts off. ok so i replaced the fuel pump and filter, now it still wont start...injectors not working... so i replaced those. now the fuel problem is over...but now when you start it it will try to idle and its missing pretty badly and it pops through the intake and the exaust... we checked..double checked and triple checked the timing everything is right. we have checked the map sensor, mass air, IAC, distributor, TFI module, everything electronic except the computer. before we put the motor in the car had been sitting for 6months and the battery has been dead. thought maybe the computer was in default but i highly doubt it. it acts the same way even if you pull the spout connector out so i would think that that eliminates the computer. but if you rev it above 2500 it clears up and runs just fine. im lost can anyone help me here....please!!..

 

[nito88stang]

Might just be the cam. Try raising the idle. If you've never been around a cammed car with a very low idle then it sounds like the car is goin to hell.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

 

[cornholio47]

i was reading about the KOEO test. ive done that before, but it says you have to get the car to operating tempateure. we cant even get it to run that long.

 

[cornholio47]

ive also been around a cammed car alot for the past 3yrs bc all of my friends own modified mustangs. but we have gotten together on this problem again and we might think it is a vaccum leak it must be an awful big vaccum leak to cause it to run that bad. any suggestions on where it could be coming from? the hose going from to the intake to the vaccum cluster on the firewall is hooked up. any other hoses or leaks anybody can think of??

 

[jrichker]

Here's some help for the vacuum lines - Red line goes to the fuel pressure regulator.
Speed density cars: One goes from the manifold to the MAP sensor on the firewall behind the upper manifold.
Mass Air cars: NO connection goes from the manifold to the BARO sensor on the firewall behind the upper manifold.

There is a cluster of vacuum lines on the passenger side wheel well. A plastic sleeve covers the colored part of the lines: push it back to see the colors I am referring to.

One white line from the vacuum line cluster goes to the rear smog pump valve. One line goes from the manifold to the red line on the vacuum line cluster. One green line from the vacuum line cluster goes to the EGR, The black line from the vacuum line cluster goes to the from smog pump valve.

One large vacuum line from the front goes to the carbon canister control solenoid.

One large line goes to the vacuum tree

Some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) with a picture...
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif

You can dump the codes without having the engine running. Just follow the directions I posted, then post the codes. The computer will find a number of problems with an engine that will only crank and not run.

 

[cornholio47]

well i think we found the problem...the cam might be out of time itself. we are guessing and hoping that it might be off a tooth or two bc that would not be noticeable unless you took the front end apart and looked. hopefully this will be it..hopefully. i just dont know what else would cause it to pop through the intake and exaust.