Fox Help With 84 Door And Window Weatherstripping

I put new run channel and weatherstripping on my 1984 Mustang today and I only got the driver's side done. After doing the run channel on the window I couldn't get the window to roll up easily. Right by the mirror (which was removed beforehand) the rubber is pinched more than other areas and once you get the window to the top it's really tough to roll up all the way into the top channel, to the point the door panel where the crank mechanism is mounted starts to push out. Is this normal and will eventually break-in? I'm not sure what else I could do since it just appears to be tight. The window was also a little crooked when it rolled up without me pushing the glass up on one side, but I solved that by moving the upper mount on the tube slider mechanism to the left a little.

The other problem was the weatherstripping that the door closes onto. Once I was finished it looks perfect but now my door isn't flush and sticks out a little all the way from the top to the bottom. It is hitting the weatherstripping but I don't think that's stopping it. There is a little slop in the hinge pins but not much, because I did replace those about 10 years ago and haven't used the car much since. The striker bushings are good but I noticed when I tighten the striker the bushing starts to pinch, expanding it. I think it's too long, maybe that's making the latch not close all the way and pull the door in? I usually solve this by moving the striker inward but it's all the way in already and I don't see any adjustment on the door latch itself. Any ideas?

Mustang5L5 said:

The run channel molding is a fun install. I ran into the same issues when I did it in my car. Best advice I got was to buy a can of silicone spray lubricant. I sprayed the channel and it helped the window slide all the way up and in.

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Good tip I'll try that, thanks. I did loosen everything up and tightened it up later. The window seems to be worse now with new seals. We'll see after it wears and I lube it.

Well I tried everything just now to get the door flush but it's not gonna happen. I moved the striker all over the place and it only makes it worse. The entire door is sticking out about 1/4" top and bottom so I can't do any tricks like bending the top inward. It's all hitting the weatherstripping because I can see the weatherstripping move from the top of the door when I close it. I tried moving the latch on the door but that has no adjustment. The handle is a little hard to open but I removed the striker bushing and the handle is still stiff so I guess the latch just needs some lube. I can't stand having the door out of adjustment but I'm not sure what else to try. The striker needs to be moved inward more but it's not possible without cutting some metal. I tried to remove the plastic plunger that pushes against the door to see what would happen and the ring that snaps over it broke, now I need that part.