could someone help me figure out what these codes are and what i could do to fix it or further track it also ..in a earlier thread .....i checked my mass air and got .5 volts which are suppose to be between .6 and .9 also when unplugged the car runs perfect and idles well...
what codes did you pull? you should probably clean your maf and see if that helps. if it runs fine with the unplugged something is wrong. mine actually ran fine with it unplugged too...didnt know it was unplugged though...it had a pretty bad miss on the top end
i havent driven it with it unplugged but it did fix my idle problem completly....on pro m's site it says volts should be .6 or higher i know i have a c&L but volts shouldnt matter between the 2.....
i havent driven it with it unplugged but it did fix my idle problem completly....on pro m's site it says volts should be .6 or higher i know i have a c&L but volts shouldnt matter between the 2.....here is the codes i pulled
21-coolant temp
67-park nuetral switch
34-evp or egr
44-smog not worried
66-mass air flow signal (so this backs up my statement)
94-this is because my smog is off (no biggie)
im thinking i need to replace my ect sensor and the mass sensor on top of the c&l tube,...........
Code 21 – ECT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ECT sensor. Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ECT can be in error.
ACT & ECT test data:
The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same
Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts
Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer. Here's the table :
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
Code 34 EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the EGR valve by mouth. If you can, replace the EGR valve ($85-$95).
Codes 94 & 44 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.
Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)
Code 66 MAF below minimum test voltage.
Insufficient or no voltage from MAF. Dirty MAF element, bad MAF, bad MAF wiring, missing power to MAF. Check for missing +12 volts on this circuit. Check the two links for a wiring diagram to help you find the red wire for computer power relay switched +12 volts. Check for 12 volts between the red and black wires on the MAF (usually pins A & B).
There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element casing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.
The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.
At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt
Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.
There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.
[See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)
Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto). Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance.
how do you suppose i fix it ...should i just get a new sensor for on top of my mass and grab a new coolant temp sensor while im at it....also today i noticed that my fuel press reg was leaking some then it stoped and it hasnt leaked again...it has done this before .....it will leak some at first start of the day ...then all day it is fine weird but anyway that isnt causing my mass and ect sensors to be bad....would it hurt me to just run a stock regulator again i mean all i run is 38 psi vac off anyways....
Throwing parts at a problem just makes you poorer and tired. The ECT sensor is about $13-$18, the MAF sensor is $50 or more. Do some diagnostic work using the info from my previous post to find out what's broke & what isn't.
well today i reinstalled the factory fuel regulator and got another mass air sensor(just the electronic's for the top of my c&l) and it still is exactly the same so now what is it the whole meter itself .......im still getting the .5 v between c-d on the meter